Well I said I would.............

289, FIA & Daytona topics
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Cotton Mouth
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Cotton Mouth »

Could I ask for some help from the congregation please?

1. I have a mustang world series T5 - what fluid do you recommend to go in the gear box and what volume?
2. I have a Jaguar limited slip Differential - what oil do I use and what sort of volume?
3. I have a Demon carb. On the drivers side there are two small ports where the vacuum advance presumably attaches - The front port is "ported or timed vacuum for spark advance to occur with throttle opening" and the second is "direct manifold vacuum for diagnostics, accessories or distributors that use the manifold for timing advance". I assume its the first one?
4. When taking the feed from the alternator to the battery I am wondering If I can join to it the major positive feed to the fuse block before it gets to the battery - I would assume I can as the wires would join at the battery terminal any way so would this cause a problem?
5. I have an electronic mallory distributor comp SS magnetic breakerless distributor with three wires. Red goes to ballast, green to negative terminal and then all the on-line instructions suggest the last wire should be brown but it is purple and black - I assume this is to earth?

Many thanks for any help gratefully received.
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Roger King
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Roger King »

I hope you are seated at the harmonium and ready to pedal hard.

Right then -

1) Good quality ATF - I use this: http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-967-fuchs-t ... e-oil.aspx - which I see they have discontinued, so I'll have to find something else. Thanks. Quantity - don't know, 2 litres should do it.
2) Castrol Hypoy LS. Can't remember quantity, again you'll need 2 litres and will have some left over.
3) Yes, use ported advance, full manifold seems to be a bugger to get it to idle. Modern cams and carbs are designed for ported vacuum. Minus 5 points for using a distributor with vacuum advance.
4) Yes, don't see why not, as long as it will take the current.
5) Odd, mine is brown, but yes it must be the earth.

'Oh god our help in ages past....'
Paul Blore
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Paul Blore »

Is your "magnetic" distributor different to a Unilite, which does appear to have a brown earth lead? If you have a part number, you should be able to get the installation instructions from here (if you haven't already looked):

https://www.msdperformance.com/support/instructions/

Paul
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peterc
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by peterc »

If you have a query ref the correct oil to use anywhere in the car then I suggest you contact Castrol as they have a free advice center. You can always then get an equivalent from another supplier if you don't want to support Castrol.
I couldn't find what to use for my Rover gearbox as they had stopped manufacture of Castrol SMX which I had used successfully for years. The SMX was thicker than ATF but thinner than SAE 80.
I know you are discussing a T5 box but Rover had changed their views on using ATF years ago as whilst it provided a better gear selection it didn't provide sufficient protection to the gears.
Castrol suggested Syntrans Multivehicle 75-90 which is fully synthetic.
I have since learnt that this is thinner than the semi synthetic 75-90 which I used but now find the gear change a little stiffer than it used to be. So a further change to fully synthetic is needed.
Peter C
Colin Newbold
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Colin Newbold »

peterc wrote:If you have a query ref the correct oil to use anywhere in the car then I suggest you contact Castrol as they have a free advice center. You can always then get an equivalent from another supplier if you don't want to support Castrol.
Steady Peter, you'll give us a bad name :roll:. Bet you're the kind that keeps asking questions of the retail salesperson, building up their hopes of an imminent conquest only to leave them with a "Let me think about it" then goes home and promptly places the order on Amazon :lol:.

Colin
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peterc
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by peterc »

Actually Colin whilst I do undertake a fair amount of research in the high street, I do also prefer to buy in the local town. I like to see what I am buying. I do buy more and more from Amazon only because I can't find it locally.
I did buy Castrol but still had to get it from Amazon as no one around here sells Castrol.
Getting decent advice from somewhere like Halfords is becoming non existent. Surely most people who service their own cars also own older cars. Try looking in the car guides. You won't find a Rover V8 anymore. It's all newer vehicles. This means you don't know which oil filter etc.
Around my area there are very few decent Auto factors and they sell makes of oil that I have never heard of.
I know members have their own preferred suppliers which is why I suggested anyone could chose an equivalent.
In industry it was easy as we had a cross reference chart that would advise the respective products of around 8 main oil suppliers. Different clients insisted on their preferred supplier.
Peter C
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Roger King
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Roger King »

Surely if you joined one of the Rover forums there would be plenty of advice on there? Or TVR? or Morgan?
I'd be looking at good-quality full synthetics. With modern machining and seal quality etc. there should be no need to run 'dino oil', as the yanks call it.
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peterc
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by peterc »

Roger I had always taken the view that my engine, gearbox and diff are not modern. I used semi synthetic throughout th life of the Cob but was reluctant to go to fully synthetic in case of potential problems.
I think I am now convinced on the going to the synthetic gearbox oil as it will be a bit thinner than the semi synthetic but still better than ATF.
Peter C
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Roger King
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Roger King »

Peter, I'm pretty sure mine are older than yours - the engine is a 1964 casting, as are the crank and rods, and whilst the gearbox and diff are new they are faithful copies of the originals. The difference is that now these components can be machined to modern tolerances, and can be made much 'tighter'. Our understanding of oil film science has changed significantly since these motors were designed, and their requirements are much better understood. If the components themselves are worn, or machined to historical tolerances, that might be a different matter; but in general it is the spec of the oil that matters, whilst taking advantage of technological changes. For example, with regard to spec, both gearbox and diff builder advised me that I had to use a GL4 spec gear oil in both components, not a GL5, because of the metal used for the synchro rings. This does dictate a mineral base. The engine, however, despite its age, has been machined to modern tolerances with some minor oiling mods internally - and therefore despite being solid lifter flat tappet runs on 15W50 full ester synthetic. This has adequate ZDDP and gives vastly superior cold-start protection over any mineral oil. And cold-starting is what my cars tend to do, after long periods of inactivity.
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peterc
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by peterc »

Roger,
Point taken,
It is certainly very important to get oil flow all around the engine asap from a cold start.
Peter C
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