Well I said I would.............
- Cotton Mouth
- T289R Member
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2008 8:38 pm
Re: Well I said I would.............
Thank you for your kind comments - I have a bit of backlog of bits I have made which I will post but at the moment I think my first job will be to sort out why the engine runs hooter than the surface of the sun - still winters coming and it will keep the garage cosy.
- amulheirn
- T289R Committee
- Posts: 1207
- Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 2:30 pm
- Location: Surrey/Hampshire
- Contact:
Re: Well I said I would.............
Hiya -
I've just been admiring your engine-bay loom in this post: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1269&start=80#p26708
I've installed a standard Hawk loom which I've tried to conceal for the most part. The longer-term plan was to try to install a mock-up loom across the bulkhead with the Lucas fuse block and the mix of wires like you've got.
Do you have any more pics of the loom in the engine bay you could share here? The Rinsey Mills book doesn't really have a good picture.
Cheers,
Andy
I've just been admiring your engine-bay loom in this post: viewtopic.php?f=1&t=1269&start=80#p26708
I've installed a standard Hawk loom which I've tried to conceal for the most part. The longer-term plan was to try to install a mock-up loom across the bulkhead with the Lucas fuse block and the mix of wires like you've got.
Do you have any more pics of the loom in the engine bay you could share here? The Rinsey Mills book doesn't really have a good picture.
Cheers,
Andy
Re: Well I said I would.............
I also added a fakey Lucas engine bay loom on the Crendon.....probably incorrect for a 289 though.
Clubcobra.com has a couple of excellent 289 builds on there that are very authentic. I have found the guys over there only to happy to help. One sent me a set of specialist bolts with '60s cap insignia on them for my Aston fuel cap.
Might be useful:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/origina ... nents.html
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/scratch ... ss-38.html
- the latter is a fantastic 289 build thread with OTT levels of authenticity. Post #758 is probably correct.
Clubcobra.com has a couple of excellent 289 builds on there that are very authentic. I have found the guys over there only to happy to help. One sent me a set of specialist bolts with '60s cap insignia on them for my Aston fuel cap.
Might be useful:
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/origina ... nents.html
http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/scratch ... ss-38.html
- the latter is a fantastic 289 build thread with OTT levels of authenticity. Post #758 is probably correct.
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Last edited by KevinW on Thu Nov 22, 2018 9:38 am, edited 3 times in total.
Re: Well I said I would.............
Hi Andy
You can get a working loom from autosparks in UK and it is according the 289 wiring diagramm.
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/finder/car ... 2+%26+mk+3
You can get a working loom from autosparks in UK and it is according the 289 wiring diagramm.
https://www.autosparks.co.uk/finder/car ... 2+%26+mk+3
- amulheirn
- T289R Committee
- Posts: 1207
- Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 2:30 pm
- Location: Surrey/Hampshire
- Contact:
Re: Well I said I would.............
Thanks very much Alf and Kevin. Any chance you can email those photos to me so I can see them in high-res?
I would install the Autosparks loom Alf, but bought a Hawk one to keep things simple - this was my first time building a car and simplicity seemed to be a good idea!
I have the Lucas SF-4. Accidentally bought an RB108/2 which I now know is incorrect. I guess the small silver boxes are flasher units and the big silver box is a voltage regulator - can you tell me the part numbers for those?
Cheers,
Andy
I would install the Autosparks loom Alf, but bought a Hawk one to keep things simple - this was my first time building a car and simplicity seemed to be a good idea!
I have the Lucas SF-4. Accidentally bought an RB108/2 which I now know is incorrect. I guess the small silver boxes are flasher units and the big silver box is a voltage regulator - can you tell me the part numbers for those?
Cheers,
Andy
Re: Well I said I would.............
Here is a better pic before I got obsessed with Trico washer bottles (also wrong for my car as only fitted to 427R variants).....
http://www.cobraclub.com/gallery/showfu ... photo=7208
Most of the colour coding is correct (I cheated on a couple) as I found a 427 wiring diagram somewhere on the web years ago.
But having looked at the build link in the post I just updated, its wrong for a 289 anyway. My suggestion would be to pm Jeff Gagnon who built the car I've linked too in the last link - he is a really nice guy and complete enthusiast. I'll bet he has an original wiring diagram! he has done a second 289 scratch build - I haven't followed that one recently, but its all on Clubcobra.
I also believe the firewall loom was fitted to the firewall with brassplated non-insulated P clips ('60s wiring standards being what they were) - I have loads left over if you want some.
http://www.cobraclub.com/gallery/showfu ... photo=7208
Most of the colour coding is correct (I cheated on a couple) as I found a 427 wiring diagram somewhere on the web years ago.
But having looked at the build link in the post I just updated, its wrong for a 289 anyway. My suggestion would be to pm Jeff Gagnon who built the car I've linked too in the last link - he is a really nice guy and complete enthusiast. I'll bet he has an original wiring diagram! he has done a second 289 scratch build - I haven't followed that one recently, but its all on Clubcobra.
I also believe the firewall loom was fitted to the firewall with brassplated non-insulated P clips ('60s wiring standards being what they were) - I have loads left over if you want some.
Re: Well I said I would.............
Hi Kevin
I would be interested in the brass plated non-insulated P clips you mentioned as I did use the insulated ones for safety reasons but I don’t think the insulation is really a must.
Hi Andy
On my picture from left to right you can see:
- Lucas DB 10 flasher relay
- Lucas SF4 fuse box (top)
- Lucas 6RA relay
- Ford ignition coil resistor
FYI: Autosparks is producing the wiring loom based on the electric wiring diagram out of the 289 page 52.
I would be interested in the brass plated non-insulated P clips you mentioned as I did use the insulated ones for safety reasons but I don’t think the insulation is really a must.
Hi Andy
On my picture from left to right you can see:
- Lucas DB 10 flasher relay
- Lucas SF4 fuse box (top)
- Lucas 6RA relay
- Ford ignition coil resistor
FYI: Autosparks is producing the wiring loom based on the electric wiring diagram out of the 289 page 52.
Re: Well I said I would.............
Hi Alf - pm me your address - I'll have a rummage in the garage this w/e and send over next week.....used at your own risk!
Andy - same as above. Alternatively, I live in RH20 and work in Guildford if you are located nearby.
Andy - same as above. Alternatively, I live in RH20 and work in Guildford if you are located nearby.
Re: Well I said I would.............
@ Kevin: PM sent
- Cotton Mouth
- T289R Member
- Posts: 182
- Joined: Sat Mar 08, 2008 8:38 pm
Re: Well I said I would.............
Sorry to come rather late to the party but surgery (not serious) tends to do that to you. My first loom was an original 289 loom for a RHD car supplied by Autosparks. This is indeed an authentic loom and I got as far as realising that the principal positive junction point for the 289 was the starter solenoid which is mounted on the the footwell. However, as all cars now have an internal solenoid on a pre-engaged starter, it isn't necessary and I now had £400 of copper scrap. Roger Kings GRP cobra, which was sufficiently good that Gerry briefly mistook it for a real one, is in the following photograph.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
If you need more P clips AH Spares have a good selection.
My loom isn't meant to be fully original. It was made to provide sixties switchgear, some of which was re-built from several switches, to switch relays hidden behind the dash to avoid the 2-3v voltage drop across a traditional switch which markedly affects the incandescent light bulbs brightness. I wanted 2018 lighting rather than the dim, flicker and off usually offered by Mr Lucas, the Prince of Darkness. Consequently, I wouldn't claim mine was original but an approximation at best and is the third loom I have fitted - I'm a slow learner and it took this long to work out how to do everything I wanted.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
As I have not posted for a while, so I thought that I would include a few parts that I have used. Gerry was kind enough to provide a really nice number plate holder for the rear. The holes in this were about 7mm and too large for the M4 bolts with plastic cup washers I had in stock. I turned up a couple of brass inserts that were an interference fit and were then bonded into place with Loctite 603. This bracket will be sprayed with the rest of the car.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
Another problem that I had was that the bottom end of the steering column was flapping about. In order to hold this into place I built a clamp from some brass in three parts. The plate in the first picture is the same size and centres as the throttle linkage plate that is mounted to the top of the drivers footwell, sandwiching the GRP in-between the plates.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
The brass block between the circle and the plate was made separately as my ability to measure the space between the plate and the steering column was close to guess work and the slot through which it bolted allowed lateral adjustment once in place.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
The circular piece was originally a piece of brass tube that was slitted and then two vertical pieces brazed into place before being fitted with some M4 Clamp bolts. This was then put into place.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
end of part one
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
If you need more P clips AH Spares have a good selection.
My loom isn't meant to be fully original. It was made to provide sixties switchgear, some of which was re-built from several switches, to switch relays hidden behind the dash to avoid the 2-3v voltage drop across a traditional switch which markedly affects the incandescent light bulbs brightness. I wanted 2018 lighting rather than the dim, flicker and off usually offered by Mr Lucas, the Prince of Darkness. Consequently, I wouldn't claim mine was original but an approximation at best and is the third loom I have fitted - I'm a slow learner and it took this long to work out how to do everything I wanted.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
As I have not posted for a while, so I thought that I would include a few parts that I have used. Gerry was kind enough to provide a really nice number plate holder for the rear. The holes in this were about 7mm and too large for the M4 bolts with plastic cup washers I had in stock. I turned up a couple of brass inserts that were an interference fit and were then bonded into place with Loctite 603. This bracket will be sprayed with the rest of the car.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
Another problem that I had was that the bottom end of the steering column was flapping about. In order to hold this into place I built a clamp from some brass in three parts. The plate in the first picture is the same size and centres as the throttle linkage plate that is mounted to the top of the drivers footwell, sandwiching the GRP in-between the plates.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
The brass block between the circle and the plate was made separately as my ability to measure the space between the plate and the steering column was close to guess work and the slot through which it bolted allowed lateral adjustment once in place.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
The circular piece was originally a piece of brass tube that was slitted and then two vertical pieces brazed into place before being fitted with some M4 Clamp bolts. This was then put into place.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
end of part one