Well I said I would.............

289, FIA & Daytona topics
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Cotton Mouth
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Cotton Mouth » Mon Dec 03, 2018 10:44 pm

part 2

Whilst I was on a fabrication roll, the indicator cancelling cam wouldn't reliably work with the VW indicator stalk. I made one up and screwed it into place and it now works like a dream.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/

The Rear bumper was then fitted. By this stage I had loaned my copy of the instructions to someone with a real interest in building a 289 and first met the challenge that the overriders I had bought some years ago were so old that they did not have the sprung captive nuts but were secured with a 5/16 UNC threaded bolt. These were made by drilling the M10 rod and tapping it 5/16 UNC before securing the thread in place with Loctite 603 again: they were left overlong to assist fitting and positioning of the bumper. Then came the really interesting job of fitting the rear lights and bumper. The reason that this is interesting is that the car, like the originals, isn't quite identical each side so pure. measuring gives a result that doesn't look quite right. The first job was to fit the Spyder Design LED lights to the Lucas L452 rear lenses. This isn't hard and just involves being very, very careful with the tabs on the thin metal surround. The use of the Spyder lights avoids the need for separate reflectors and indicators. These lights were put in first to assist in lining up the rear bumper. I'm am not sure if what I describe next is in accordance with the manual but this worked for me. The holes in the rear valance were cut in line with the holes in the chassis first, as these are immovable, and then the higher holes which line up with the internal wings in the boot and the rubber grommets fitted inside which the chromed copper tube goes. The first job was to cut 20mm spacers from the chromed copper tube to slide over the M10 rod and to sit between the overrider and the bumper itself as I didn't want the chromed pieces rubbing against each other.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/

Then I started at the lower driver's side tube and made an oversize piece to space the bumper off the body work - the single determining factor for this is to allow clearance for the boot handle. This tube was then shortened until the right space was achieved. This will be the shortest piece of chromed copper tube of the four. Next a piece of chromed copper tube was cut that would protrude out of the body work in the upper hole but would be shorter than the lower tube. The bumper was then lined up and the gap between the end of the tube and the bumper was measured to give an accurate length.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/

The short tube was then moved to the other sideband the bumper lined up across the back and the gap measuring again performed to cut the passenger side chromed copper tubes to length. The M10 bolts were then locked into place with the usual washer, spring washer and acorn nut combo.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/

Finally a request was made for pictures of the handbrake linkage I made up for the jaguar rear brakes. The front piece is a dumbbell arrangement where one piece is just a cube secured to the cross shaft with a grub screw and the other piece is the shaft and cube all in one piece. The cross shaft passes through the MGB handbrake lower arm. Each cube has a slit in the lateral side to allow the brake cable to be slid into place and the length is adjusted but lock nuts.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/

The rear piece is a bracket that bolts to the chassis and has a slit in each side to allow the cable to be passed onto place. This bracket is the one that holds the outer metal sheathing in place so that pull can be allied to the cable. It can just be seen in the lower portion of the first picture and in close up in the second picture.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979 ... ed-public/

The car has an age related plate - thank you to Gerry.

Finally, a question. The front over riders that I have look as though I have to drill through the chrome to fit the centre hoop. is this right? It seems bit odd to break the lovely hard shell of chrome.

Regards to you all and Merry Christmas just in case I don't get to post again before then.

Cotton Mouth

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Cotton Mouth
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Cotton Mouth » Tue Dec 04, 2018 8:43 am

And Finally, Finally, I appear to have included the links and not the photos form Flickr - can someone tell me what to insert when right clicking the photos and I will replace the links?

peterc
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by peterc » Tue Dec 04, 2018 2:11 pm

I am surprised that your steering column outer doesn’t go through the footwell as I merely reinforced the wall of the footwell where the column passes through. I think some members don’t even feel the need to do that.

I admire your dedication to trying to make the car authentic looking. Ten years ago I thought I had made a passable attempt but it seems it’s a bit 2nd rate by today’s standards. Every year the build quality of members cars just continues to elevate.

Sorry can’t help on the fitment of bumpers as I only have overriders.
Best of luck.
Peter C

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clive
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by clive » Tue Dec 04, 2018 4:40 pm

Like Peter I too am amazed at how things seem to be over engineered. My indicator cancelling cam broke so I put a zip-up tie wrap round mine so the cam part was were the broken piece was. It has worked perfectly for the past thirteen years!

Keep up the good work though. :D
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)

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StewbieC
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by StewbieC » Tue Dec 04, 2018 6:47 pm

Sorry James, Chrome drilling it is :(
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Stu
Hawk 289, maximum smiles per mile..

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Cotton Mouth
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Cotton Mouth » Tue Dec 04, 2018 10:55 pm

You are all very kind. One of my Fathers writes technical pages for the Model Engineer magazine and the other used to wire up Vulcan bombers, you may therefore understand that the sucking through the teeth and mental tire kicking that ensues in my garage is conducted well above my head and is reasonably nerve wracking. I also surmise that none of us are under the age of 25 and have any technical IT capability to advise on how to load actual pictures?

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nikbj68
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by nikbj68 » Wed Dec 05, 2018 12:18 am

Hawk 289 FiA...AT LAST!!!

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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by nikbj68 » Wed Dec 05, 2018 12:30 am

On Flickr, next to the preview banner, there is a star and two arrows. Click on the middle one, and select 'BB Code'.
Select the size of image you wish to share, then copy the text.
Paste it to the forum.
Attachments
image.png
image.png
Hawk 289 FiA...AT LAST!!!

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clive
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by clive » Wed Dec 05, 2018 12:36 am

I use Imgur. Just click on the image you want to post and six options appear to the right of it. Click copy on the BBCode and then paste on the forum.
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)

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nikbj68
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by nikbj68 » Wed Dec 05, 2018 12:41 am

If you don't want it to say which image it is or who by( as above) you need to delete most of the text( example in red, below:), leaving only the code linking to the image:

(url=https://flic.kr/p/2dkApR6)(img)https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4891/46166701211_6fa57c3e79_b.jpg(/img)(/url)
(url=https://flic.kr/p/2dkApR6)IMG_0107 2(/url) by (url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/147677979@N02/)James Adeley(/url)


Image
Hawk 289 FiA...AT LAST!!!

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