Well I said I would.............

289, FIA & Daytona topics
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Cotton Mouth
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Cotton Mouth » Tue Aug 14, 2012 4:45 pm

I did check - unlike my proof reading - that there is a little over a liter in the bottle. I only found out that you can get new ones after I had rebuilt the old one but I quite like the patina. Whether or not this will be my view when the damn thing fails on a hot day is a different question. At 300 amps, this baby could warm the cockles of even a dentist's heart. Thanks for all the kind comments and help. I will post more soon and you are quite right about the Christmas IVA.

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Cotton Mouth
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Cotton Mouth » Fri Aug 24, 2012 10:56 pm

Here is something else I have been having a lash at. I acquired a 1971 Harrison expansion tank from the states for about $34 including postage which I then polished. It is only to a rough satin finish and I haven't removed the dings as I quite like them

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This then required a bracket to position it at the correct height in the engine bay. I made up the parts in 3mm aluminium plate and guessed at the height of the bracket.

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The curved sections were rolled by a local metal metal works to fit the tank. The bracket was then TIG welded up by a fellow that spends most of his time making manifolds for race cars. Those of you who have ever been involved in welding aluminium (which at this point did not include me) will know that for the amount of heat you have to use to butt weld aluminium it has to be a fairly substantial piece to take the heat. The elegant long limbs of the supports were unceremoniously sliced off as they would simply have melted. You will note that the welds are non continuous - apparently continuous welds are only used on tanks and non continuous welds allow the metal to release stress. The parts when welded looked like this and were then powder coated.

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The tank sits on 1mm rubber sheet cut to size from a sheet of gasket. To secure the tank in place I initially tried to cut a slot in a single piece of 1mm aluminium but could not do it accurately enough and so resorted to two 13mmx 1mm aluminium bands. The ends of the bands were rolled around 3mm steel inserts and were then tightened with 3mm bolts. The bracket was then inserted and secured with four bolts to the chassis. This is the final result.

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I will now need to fabricate a piece of aluminium pipe to make the necessary connections to the tank and include a suitable receiver for the mechanical temperature probe as I have used the normal point at which one is inserted into the Edlebrock performer intake manifold to take the return from the heater. Does anyone have any views where the small pipe from the top of the tank (not the one form the neck which is the overflow) should insert? I have seen it put into the top pipe to the radiator. Obviously if it needs to go to the radiator I have a small problem in that it faces 180 degrees the wrong way.

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Roger King
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Roger King » Fri Aug 24, 2012 11:21 pm

...and a good buy at that price. Be sure to check it as the ally's quite thin and prone to dings/leaks.
Or buy new:

https://www.paragoncorvette.com/c-23648 ... -tank.aspx

Correct bracketry for one of these is bolted to the inner wing via straps,* but the centre position you've used (as in the race cars) is probably easier to service.

Edit - just read the rest of your post. The small pipe is indeed the radiator bleed, which you need to connect to the topmost corner of the rad.
Sorry.

Ditto - you will need two 3/8npt take-offs - one for the temp gauge (assuming mechanical), and another for the fan thermostat switch. I would suggest using the correct hole on the intake for the heater hose, there should be another spare hole over behind the distributor for the temp gauge sender. Gerry's radiators come with a bung hole for the thermo fan switch near the top hose connector. Or you could use a thermostat cover with a threaded boss for the thermo switch.

Note to self - read entire post before responding.

*just looked at the pic - you can't do this anyway, because you have a GM alternator in the way. Original Ford alternator would be on the other side.

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Migge
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Migge » Sat Aug 25, 2012 10:07 am

Nice bracket and great work anyway!!

Got my tank brand new for 119,- US$ 3 years ago! And I have the same positioned pipes. They changed the model in 3 different version from 1962 to 1965 I think.
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Cotton Mouth
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Cotton Mouth » Tue Aug 28, 2012 8:13 am

Many thanks for the help. Blimey Migge, that's a bit of an engine bay - looks like you pay even less little attention to detail than Roger - on the other hand he is doing it for the second time and has an encouraging wife, so......... Any notes on progress Roger? Thanks for the help again - especially for pointing out that the studs in the inlet manifold are 3/8 npt ("Durr" in the words of a ten year old). There is a stud by number 5 cylinder just behind and to the left of the distributor and one at the back of the block. Does it matter which I use?

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Migge
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Migge » Wed Aug 29, 2012 9:05 pm

wowowow, hold on, it's not my engine bay, just pics from the net. Mine will be finished next year and it starts with the wrong engine :-)

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kaiserbilly1
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by kaiserbilly1 » Wed Aug 29, 2012 10:52 pm

Right, you said it, finished next year = 2013 :D
I'm going to hold you to that Miggie, I'll reserve a space for you at Silverstone :wink:
James, what is your ETA :roll:

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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Migge » Thu Aug 30, 2012 7:28 pm

Arrrghh, was not aware that Bill is looking at each post. I'll do my very best to get it ready for Silverstone!
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Roger King
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by Roger King » Thu Aug 30, 2012 8:28 pm

Cotton Mouth wrote:Many thanks for the help. Blimey Migge, that's a bit of an engine bay - looks like you pay even less little attention to detail than Roger - on the other hand he is doing it for the second time and has an encouraging wife, so......... Any notes on progress Roger? Thanks for the help again - especially for pointing out that the studs in the inlet manifold are 3/8 npt ("Durr" in the words of a ten year old). There is a stud by number 5 cylinder just behind and to the left of the distributor and one at the back of the block. Does it matter which I use?
Progress... yes, it's on its Triumph Herald pushmepullyou suspension, shiny new s/s wheels and Dunlop SP Sports, and if all goes to plan it will disappear to the paintshop next week. Not much else, though, no plumbing or wiring or anything like that - just all the holes drilled. And the doors dismantled, tubes ground off and new ones welded on... don't ask, might do an article for Phil.

As to manifolds, the stud by number 5 pot is the one I used for my capillary temp gauge. One at the back of the block? You could try that, but do you really want to measure the temperature of your inlet fuel/air mixture?*

For the fans, I favour a radiator welded boss for the thermo switch. If you don't want to do that, try a thermostat housing with a threaded boss for a temp sender.
BTW, if you look at the X-fan engineering website, they have a very handy list of Intermotor thermo switches for electric fans, either single temp range or some clever dual-range single switches. All OEM for major manufacturers (which ought to = reliable) and all threaded for a 22mm boss.

*actually, it might be into the water jacket - I don't have a Cobra handy to check. Don't think so, though - think it's for the brake servo vacuum or PCV.

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kaiserbilly1
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Re: Well I said I would.............

Post by kaiserbilly1 » Thu Aug 30, 2012 8:53 pm

There is no escape Miggie, "for you zee war is over" :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

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