Another small milestone reached

[Roger King]

For example, SNGBarratt have the wiper switch, PRS7 type (although there are several variants of those which are not the same):

http://www.sngbarratt.com/CatalogueProd ... 81&a=15977

These are listed at £97.00 plus VAT and delivery. I see that the knob, and the light switch (which uses a totally different type of knob for the Jag) are listed currently as 'not available online'. And I would repeat that the correct wiper switch will only work with the correct wiper motor, which will take some finding and a lot of modification to fit. Thinking about it, I'm not entirely sure the square-case motors will fit between the Hawk's footbox (which is a significantly different shape from an original's) and the underside of the body. Need to check that, too.
Best option, as stated earlier, is to use the Hawk round-bodied wiper motor and modify the GT6 rotary switch to suit. The park mechanism is part of the motor so the complex reversing setup in the Cobra is not replicated.
I reckon to fit out with correct, original switches and knobs, including correct wiper motor, would cost in the region of £900-1000, not including the changes to the wiring harness. This would depend on availability and careful searching. For example, the UK-market headlamp flash/dipswitch is from a Rover P6 and all new stock is now extinct from the main sources, so secondhand parts is your only hope for that.

Peter, I seem to remember your car is an FIA, and therefore a race-replica - it wouldn't have had any of this stuff, most of them had moved on to simple toggle switches as they were modified! Much simpler!

Roger

[Roger King]

So you must have spent significant time trolling the web to find these bits...

There are weeks when I pretty much live on ebay (mostly US) and the specialist forums in the hunt for parts. For cars like these, it really ain't easy.

I had uncovered a new source for the correct screenwasher jets, who was going to get them remade, but he went quiet after he got the tooling estimates...

[peterc]

Thanks again Roger - I will view the web site quoted with interest.
Yes, you are correct that my car is an FIA ( and pre Jan 2000 so not to full SVA ) but dash is based on a road car so I had previously wanted to get the correct engraved items
You comments ref race cars dash being different is of course very valid
I will review accordingly
Peter

[Marsh]

Peter

I sourced my knurled switches from Ashley Hinton MG parts. I bought what appear to be correct light and wiper knobs for £15 each and they do appear to be identical to Roger's, though I may of course be mistaken...

They're available on Ebay UK right now and they also stock the 'Panel' version too, also at £15, in addition to' Lights' and 'Wiper'...

Lee

[Roger King]

Peter

I sourced my knurled switches from Ashley Hinton MG parts. I bought what appear to be correct light and wiper knobs for £15 each and they do appear to be identical to Roger's, though I may of course be mistaken...

They're available on Ebay UK right now and they also stock the 'Panel' version too, also at £15, in addition to' Lights' and 'Wiper'...

Lee

Yes, the knobs are getting relatively easy to source. They're not quite right, but plenty good enough. The tricky bit is the correct switches, as Peter's original request.

[StewbieC]

Looking great Roger!
What do you use for a catch plate for the glove box lock? And what thickness of ply did you use? I know you use hardboard as a covered back for the lid.
Cheers Stu

[Roger King]

Looking great Roger!
What do you use for a catch plate for the glove box lock? And what thickness of ply did you use? I know you use hardboard as a covered back for the lid.
Cheers Stu

Same as the original - the latch engages on the folded lip of the aluminium dashboard, running over leather and aluminium until it reaches the 90° upward bend in the aluminium. Got to get that bend in the right place, no adjustment!

Glovebox doors are built exactly as original, and I've done quite a lot of research on this...
1/4" birch-faced ply, with a cotton/horsehair padding and covered with split leather. For the edges, I couldn't find leather piping in this country, only vinyl, so had to get it from the US. The back panel is 1/16" millboard (from a bookbinders) covered with vinyl, the closest you can get to Rexine. Once covered this panel is simply glued to the back of the glovebox door.
I had correct hinges (chrome on brass, 1" wide) made by Gold and Wassall to special order, and solid aluminium countersunk rivets to fix hinge to plywood, hammered directly into the wood on the fit side.
The slightly annoying thing is that I've had to buy a second hide, not split this time, to make the door pockets and straps. The rear wheelarches behind the seats are covered in the split hide, as are the A-post tubes and the dashboard braces.

[Roger King]

More progress - I can't remember if I've posted this yet, but if not, here's the finished boot interior:



...although that's not quite correct. Spot the mistake!

[Marsh]

Wire wheel retainer Roger>

[Roger King]

Wire wheel retainer Roger>

Nope, that's a special casting and exactly correct - same as Ace and Aceca.