Does anyone have any idea where I can get a Rover thermostat housing that comes out of the intake horizontally,like this
As opposed to the standard type putting the hose at 45 deg? I've used my best friend Google, but can't seem to find one. This would put the top hose much lower than it currently is, which could help.
Thanks in advance
Nige
header tank
Re: header tank
Nige.
I found out that my Hawk supplied header tank needed to be filled tight to the brim to ensure that the water level not only filled the heater but that there were no air pockets anywhere in the system. Naturally as the water got hot it spilled out the excess onto the road and then left me short. Constant refilling is clearly not the answer.
The answer is to fit an over flow bottle into which the excess could park itself whilst the engine is hot. As Roger says it should be filled from the cooling system into the bottom of the over flow so when the system cools down it sucks it back in. Thus you have a closed no loss system.
My over flow is typical of the Austin Metro. The original header tank cap is changed to just a cap (without a spring) and the pressure cap is then added to the over flow bottle. This allows the header tank to be filled to the top of the neck. e.g nearly 2" more.
My view would be that if you retained the pressure cap on the original header tank then as the coolant cools the pressure dissipates and the spring would close the cap off and prevent coolant being sucked back in so I'm not sure how Roger's system worked.
I do know that my system has worked well over many years. The overflow bottle is under half full when cold and 2/3rds full when hot.
Photo shows water level approx 30 mins after a run.
Peter C
PS
I have the angled thermostat housing and the top hose being a tad high but that's only part of the issue if you check the height of the rest of the system as well. Ref a new thermostat housing talk to Real Steel I think they have several options
I found out that my Hawk supplied header tank needed to be filled tight to the brim to ensure that the water level not only filled the heater but that there were no air pockets anywhere in the system. Naturally as the water got hot it spilled out the excess onto the road and then left me short. Constant refilling is clearly not the answer.
The answer is to fit an over flow bottle into which the excess could park itself whilst the engine is hot. As Roger says it should be filled from the cooling system into the bottom of the over flow so when the system cools down it sucks it back in. Thus you have a closed no loss system.
My over flow is typical of the Austin Metro. The original header tank cap is changed to just a cap (without a spring) and the pressure cap is then added to the over flow bottle. This allows the header tank to be filled to the top of the neck. e.g nearly 2" more.
My view would be that if you retained the pressure cap on the original header tank then as the coolant cools the pressure dissipates and the spring would close the cap off and prevent coolant being sucked back in so I'm not sure how Roger's system worked.
I do know that my system has worked well over many years. The overflow bottle is under half full when cold and 2/3rds full when hot.
Photo shows water level approx 30 mins after a run.
Peter C
PS
I have the angled thermostat housing and the top hose being a tad high but that's only part of the issue if you check the height of the rest of the system as well. Ref a new thermostat housing talk to Real Steel I think they have several options
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Re: header tank
agnoraan wrote:Does anyone have any idea where I can get a Rover thermostat housing that comes out of the intake horizontally,like this
As opposed to the standard type putting the hose at 45 deg? I've used my best friend Google, but can't seem to find one. This would put the top hose much lower than it currently is, which could help.
Thanks in advance
Nige
Thermostat housing query now sorted, Thanks Alan (catsx11)
Nige
- Roger King
- Posts: 4396
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:29 pm
- Location: St Ives, Cambs
Re: header tank
Peter, my system in the Mustang runs at zero pressure with the Evans coolant so coolant can pass back and forth between system and tank with no problems. If you run an expansion tank with a pressurised system, I would still have the pressure cap on the header tank and a simple screw-on cap on the expansion tank. Make sure you use a 3-way cap - the main (sprung) seal is pressurised, and opens to allow hot water under pressure to overflow into the expansion tank - there is a seal at the top to stop water simply overflowing out of the cap. There is a one-way unsprung valve in the centre of the sprung pressure seal which allows coolant back in as it contracts.peterc wrote:My view would be that if you retained the pressure cap on the original header tank then as the coolant cools the pressure dissipates and the spring would close the cap off and prevent coolant being sucked back in so I'm not sure how Roger's system worked.
- David Large
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:28 am
- Location: Walsall
Re: header tank
Nigel,agnoraan wrote:agnoraan wrote:Does anyone have any idea where I can get a Rover thermostat housing that comes out of the intake horizontally,like this
As opposed to the standard type putting the hose at 45 deg? I've used my best friend Google, but can't seem to find one. This would put the top hose much lower than it currently is, which could help.
Thanks in advance
Nige
Thermostat housing query now sorted, Thanks Alan (catsx11)
Nige
Can you share the solution I have a 45 deg thermostat housing on my Rover engine which I would love to replace.
David
David Large
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
Re: header tank
Here you go David http://www.racetechdirect.co.uk/e6037-t ... models.asp I'd been searching uncer the heading of "Rover", but Alan found this under TVR. I've contacted them and they'll fit early Rover engines
Nige
Nige
- David Large
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:28 am
- Location: Walsall
Re: header tank
Hi,
Thanks for that, I have been searching on and off for years!
My car has a bypass hose, I suppose I just blank that off at the manifold and drill a bypass hole in the thermostat?
David
Thanks for that, I have been searching on and off for years!
My car has a bypass hose, I suppose I just blank that off at the manifold and drill a bypass hole in the thermostat?
David
David Large
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
-
- Posts: 376
- Joined: Sat Apr 03, 2010 4:05 pm
Re: header tank
Hi Nige,
I have a Rover engine and the header was a pain. I was using one of Gerry's tanks and resolved the problem by drilling new mounting holes and getting it as high in the engine bay as I had space for. Used the old plastecine on the tank cap trick and raised it accordingly. It worked fine after that.
Allan
I have a Rover engine and the header was a pain. I was using one of Gerry's tanks and resolved the problem by drilling new mounting holes and getting it as high in the engine bay as I had space for. Used the old plastecine on the tank cap trick and raised it accordingly. It worked fine after that.
Allan
- David Large
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:28 am
- Location: Walsall
Re: header tank
Just looking at my thermostat housing and thinking about the by pass situation, I came back to the internet and discovered this innovative solution. We are going to the US of A soon to visit our son and his wife, so I am going to get him to order one of these so I can bring it back with me and try it. I need to get the hump over the distributor out of my system - if I can achieve that then I will put in an aluminium radiator.David Large wrote:Hi,
Thanks for that, I have been searching on and off for years!
My car has a bypass hose, I suppose I just blank that off at the manifold and drill a bypass hole in the thermostat?
David
http://www.aluminumv8.com/Home/NewStuff
regards
David
David Large
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
Re: header tank
David,
Do you get a surge in temperature a mile or so after demanding extra power to overtake or race up a hill. I believe this is caused by the thermostat being a long way away from the temp sensor on the Eldebroxk Rover manifold. I didn't think that having a straight thermostat outlet would change that.
On a level cruise at 65 mph my temp can drop below the 82C of the stat so I'm definitely getting enough cooling.
Peter C
Do you get a surge in temperature a mile or so after demanding extra power to overtake or race up a hill. I believe this is caused by the thermostat being a long way away from the temp sensor on the Eldebroxk Rover manifold. I didn't think that having a straight thermostat outlet would change that.
On a level cruise at 65 mph my temp can drop below the 82C of the stat so I'm definitely getting enough cooling.
Peter C