Weather or not…

[Steve M]

Hi All..

We’ll be getting the body off for the first time in the next day or so.

I’ve read that “weathering” the body helps it settle before being painted.

What’s the consensus here? Are there positives (or no negatives at least), to leaving the body outside (appropriately supported) in the elements while building up the chassis?

Thanks
Steve

[KevinW]

Left my old (Sumo) body out for a few years before paint, No problem.
A bit of british sun and weather is a good thing to help it settle imho.

[Steve M]

Thanks Kevin - logistically that will be easier to store. Just the matter of carrying it through the garden

[peterc]

I think the worst thing is covering it up. Where ever you chose to store it I suggest you support it roughly where it would be attached to the chassis. You want it to maintain its correct shape and not sag over time.
I didn’t have much option but leave it in position on the chassis in the garage and despite not covering it up it still created a bubble on top of a wing after paint which wasn’t done till 18+ months after delivery.
Peter C

[KevinW]

Should be easy to carry with 2 able bodies people. I was skepticla when I first did this, especially tipping it sideways to fit through the garden gate. 3 people with one as an overseer makes it easy (unless its a GD body, which are very very heavy).

I say dont cover it, except for some ducktape if there is a little hole in the gelcoat in the odd place. That way you get plenty of thermal cycling to help any bubbles under the gelocat make themselves known before paint. Mine stayed outside for 2 years, then another year covered up, the latter just because i didnt want it being lifted by the local thieves as it was on full display next to the road, without a fence or gate. You will need to clear off some leaves and spiders later, but so what.

Peter is right though, worth supporting at mounting points. I couldn't be bothered, except for propping up below the boot at the rear, esle the door sills will get stressed and then deform.

[StewbieC]

Best options for storing the body include supported, dry and nothing contacting the grp as it will continue to harden. The Hawk bodies are very good and made from Vinyl ester GRP which is the best quality. Some minimal sinking may occur which is pretty normal and nothing to be concerned about. Remove all of the masking tape. I’ve worked on Hawks where the tape is still there after 20 plus years and it’s a pig to get off. Everything you need to do on the chassis is normally wrapped up in a couple of months even if you take your time so body will be back on in no time. You have my mail address from Gerry if you have any questions.

[Steve M]

Chaps - thank you for your responses and advice.

We turned it on its side and attempted to carry it through the garden and…… failed miserably!

It wasn’t the weight so much as the lack of lifting points when on its side.

So, back to looking at some changes to the garage layout to see if it can live in there.

Thanks again - Steve

[KevinW]

I'm surprised. When I did it the nose aperture provides a set of natural hand hold points and the lip on the boot the same.
Perhaps you had the boot taped on?
Anyway, good luck.

[StewbieC]

Boot and bonnet are easy to remove either just put the nuts back on the studs / bolts to save losing them. It’s much easier to work on them with the bonnet off and without a boot stay take the boot lid off too. Much easier to tape the cable to the hinge too for the rear number plate light. Use the time to drill the seatbelt mount holes in the body too. Especially if you are planning on fitting a prop shaft safety hoop as they use the same holes . One bolt from the top and one from the bottom. We are happy to help.