First thoughts and lots of questions...

[Kenven]

The age if my engine was early 1974 and I recall the cut off date was later that year possibly September, prior to that date there should be no engine smoke from the exhaust was the only check.

[KevinW]

I used a 1972 engine. Its a 7 litre big block - just needed a smoke test.
Keeping the noise below the 99dB limit was the main challenge.

I would suggest you just make sure that engine ID is clearly visible before parting with any money so that year of manufacture can be proven.
Sometimes these can get 'machined off' in the rebuild process.

[StewbieC]

My ten peneth would be to build a car to pass IVA and get successfully registered. I don't know why people think in going in any other direction?
In practical terms ,when building a Hawk, if you want an age related plate you need a minimum of 2 from the following 3: Steering complete (normally a given) and axles both or suspension complete. You can't do the suspension complete without the rear axle. Therefore most go for Steering complete and axles both and incorporate the Tubular wishbone upgrade at the front which is easier done from the start and infinitely better than the front Lever arm shocks and Spring pan configuration. You maintain the MGB front stub axles up front so job done. Get a pre 74 Ford and mate it to a T5 parts are more wide spread (in particular for the gear box in respect to selector linkages and pivots). It is a much more trouble free set up and as long as you replace engine oil and use high zddp content and change your ATF in your T5 frequently you will love the combination. I've always liked dealing with Real Steel, it is not necessarily all about price. I've had my Goldcard with them for about 15 years now.
As already mentioned come along to the NEC. There should be 5 Hawks on stand, many knowledgeable members will be there and it's much easier to take photos and talk to people. We are there all day Friday, Sat and Sun the week after next.
I know it is an exciting time, even better when you take it out for your first drive! There's no easy way to divert from the well established build route from start through IVA, through registration to final build and if you buy parts from other places they may and probably won't fit and then you are on your own. Sometimes some of the more authentic bits may need a fair bit of work to get them to fit and work so there are compromises needed. You can cut corners, it's entirely up to you but hindsight is always 20:20. I did a build write up that is available in the Maintenance section. Others have done good ones too. Some bits of building the Hawk can be difficult but it is easier if you stay on piste. Enjoy the journey!

[David_W]

Thanks Stuart - good stuff!

I don't think I can make the NEC but we had a long chat at Silverstone. I had a good look at you car and was inspired to go on the waiting list and join the club. I agree with you point about the IVA. My focus is to get through all the approvals as efficiently as possible on my journey to the car I ultimately want to own.

Some supplementary questions:

I will use all the MGB components as you recommend (and many more) but the rear axle will probably have to come from a different car to have the spoke hub. So technically, 2 rather than 3 parts for an age related plate. Certainly Andy Jennings MGB thought that would be fine and they can help me with any parts that aren't suitable from my 72 roadster.

What's the order of approvals? Is it Registration, then IVA, then MOT?

With regards to the engine, I presume you recommend pre '74 as (apart from being more original) the MOT will just check for smoke? But if I had an 80's or 90's 302 with carb (which are far more readily available) I presume they apply the emissions test related to the engines year of manufacture (assuming I have that documented from the block). They were going to drop that rule in 2018, but I believe it got kicked out.

Cheers
David

[simonjrwinter]

You’ll need IVA first, then registration. You won’t need an MOT for three years. Lots of people MOT test their cars prior to IVA just to check emissions/brakes etc. this is not compulsory.
Simon

[David_W]

Thank you for confirming the sequencing of the approvals process Simon.

I had some interesting conversations with the Ford engine suppliers recommended above, which others may find useful. They were all really helpful and knowledgeable, although the services they offered differ:

Roadcraft recommended going for as early as possible pre-1990. However, they now only supply crate engines with new blocks (BluePrint and Ford Performance) which would not meet the emissions requirements for my plan. They are an official Tremec supplier, so no problem with a new T5 package.

Hilltop Services can supply any spec 302, 331, 347 and 351 to all levels of build, balanced and dyno tested.

Real Steel usually work on a bare block supplied by the customer, although they do have some pre ’75 blocks coming in from the States shortly (probably too soon for me given the Hawk waiting list). They will build the engine up to the spec required by the customer. They can also supply an engine age authenticity certificate. They provided the following useful information on emissions requirements, which I wasn’t able to find elsewhere.

Engine block Date- to 31-7-75 = no visible smoke

Engine block Date- 1-8-75 to 31-7-86 = Visual & <= 4.5 CO & <= 1200 HC @ normal rpm, hot idle. HC can be
tested at 2000rpm if CO passes at idle.

Engine block Date- 1-8-86 to 31-7-95 = Visual & <= 3.5 CO & <= 1200 HC @ normal hot idle. HC can be tested
at 2000rpm if CO passes at idle.

Engine block date- 1-8-95 on = With oil temp at 60 degrees C, Visual & @ fast idle [2500-3000rpm <= .3% CO &
<= 200 HC, Lambda .97 to 1.03 At idle [450-1500rpm], CO should be <= .5%. Catalytic converter/s and fuel
injection is mandatory.

[clive]

As an alternative engine supplier, I used Knight Racing Services as suggested by Gerry, but that was twenty years ago!

https://www.knightracingservices.co.uk/

[David_W]

As an alternative engine supplier, I used Knight Racing Services as suggested by Gerry, but that was twenty years ago!

Thanks for the tip Clive. I contacted Peter Knight. He doesn't source engines anymore and said they now manufacture using their own pattern work & castings. He said I would need to provide a good standard bore engine block. They only build complete dyno tested engines. He also recommended the aforementioned Roadcraft and Hilltop as good options for a complete solution.