Water Pump Replacement

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clive
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by clive » Mon Apr 09, 2018 12:44 pm

Not quite. Only remove the one hose from the top pipe where it goes through the bulkhead to the heater and fill through the hose until the coolant comes out of the heater pipe, then reconnect. The heater is generally the highest point in the system and therefore where any air will collect.
Cheers, Clive.

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Colin Newbold
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by Colin Newbold » Mon Apr 09, 2018 4:15 pm

You're going to think me very dense here Clive, but I'm still not 100% clear, I'm pretty sure there are two heater hoses going through the bulkhead (I can't remember without looking if one is higher than the other or they are both on the same level). Lets assume one is higher than the other. So I disconnect that one from the bulkhead (so there's now an exposed heater pipe poking through) - hold it up with a funnel in it (so whatever I add is going down the longish hose somewhere into the inlet manifold) - and keep pouring until it appears through the heater pipe I just took the other end of the hose off. Is that what you mean?
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clive
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by clive » Mon Apr 09, 2018 4:39 pm

That's correct. :-)
Cheers, Clive.

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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by Colin Newbold » Tue Apr 10, 2018 9:13 am

clive wrote:
Mon Apr 09, 2018 4:39 pm
That's correct. :-)
...and I guess that if, as I'm undoing the hose, coolant starts spewing out before it's even off...I might as well declare that test complete and re-tighten the hose clip immediately - yes?
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by Colin Newbold » Tue Apr 10, 2018 9:59 am

Thanks again for all your inputs guys, really appreciate it.

Just to let you know where I'm at: I’ve decided on the following sequence of tests this coming Saturday (hopefully the weather will play ball):

1. While still at home, check the heater hose, fill with coolant if necessary (Clive’s suggestion). If coolant spews out before the hose is even off, I guess I can conclude that’s not the issue.
2. Drive 20 miles to Tenterden area where a mate of mine has a four post lift and an airline which he’s happy to ‘lend’ to me for the day.
3. If the problem recurs on that journey, try releasing the fuel cap and see if I can continue driving.
4. If either the problem doesn’t recur on that journey, or the fuel cap release makes no difference, then – when I get to his workshop – remove seats and rear bulkhead to expose fuel pump and fuel filter.
5. Replace fuel pump (fingers crossed the spare I’ve got is a straight swop) and clean out the fuel filter. Neither job should be too difficult I figure.
6. Then put back the bulkhead and the seats and drive home…hopefully a journey without incident!!

There's one final component...referenced in this long trail already...a fuel pressure regulator. It's under the bonnet, on the bulkhead. It's pretty dirty and doesn't look like anything would have moved/changed on it, so I'm sceptical it's involved. However, I suppose to be completely thorough, I should get that out and clean it as well??

I’ll let you know how I get on:).

Colin
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by peterc » Tue Apr 10, 2018 2:33 pm

Colin , my filter reg is under the bonnet has a built in filter. Worth checking that first as it’s so easy to access. Just be carefull when bolting the bowl back up that the rubber seal is sitting in the correct place.
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by Colin Newbold » Tue Apr 10, 2018 4:14 pm

Thanks Peter, my regulator looks like this, I think its a Holley one:

https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performa ... -regulator

Not sure if it behaves quite like yours?

Colin
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by peterc » Tue Apr 10, 2018 8:29 pm

Completely different to mine Colin. If you do decide to open it up to check for foreign bodies then I would be very carefull to try to keep the setting from being changed otherwise you will be into another issue to resolve. The setting screw would be the single one on the top.
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Re: Water Pump Replacement - Update

Post by Colin Newbold » Tue Apr 17, 2018 12:18 am

Despite the glorious sunshine on Saturday, I never quite made it to my mate's 4-post lift :oops:

I only managed to travel about 2 miles from home before the engine started shutting down again. Opening the filler cap somehow got me another few miles but the euphoria was short-lived and eventually I diverted to the Barnards (race car prep...including 13 COB...some of you met them during the last LMC). Took me nearly 2 hours for a 10 mile journey! We tried a new coil, then a new Mallory Unilite ignition module, before we concluded it was not electrical.

Putting a fuel pressure gauge between the regulator and the carb revealed about 2lbs pressure which quickly dropped to zero after just one minute. Wound in the regulator and got about 4lbs, slowly dropping to almost zero. 4 possible causes then, one more likely than all the others:

1. Fuel pump (most likely)
2. Fuel regulator
3. Blocked fuel filter
4. Blocked pipes

I eventually threw the towel in and got the train home. They should be able to diagnose the issue by mid week and they'll clean everything anyway, including the carb jets.Hopefully all will be well for the road trip :wink:

Colin

P.S. We were all left wondering about my ignition system...I run a Mallory Unilite dizzie with hall effect ignition module.  The instructions clearly ask for a ballast resistor.  Yet my coil is an MSD Blaster, not really suitable with a ballast resistor - right?  And then, to further complicate matters, there's an MSD 6ALN ignition control box in the circuit. The Barnards think this is overkill, they believe that the ignition control box and the coil are compatible and they think that system is designed to be used with points.  Meanwhile, the dizzie and ballast resistor just need a suitable coil like the Mallory 29219 chrome bodied coil, and then could leave out the 6ALN. Anyone got the definitive answer?
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by Colin Newbold » Mon Apr 23, 2018 11:51 pm

Sadly, another weekend lost while the car sits in the Barnard's repair workshop. Late Friday the diagnosis on the fuel side of things had seen a replacement fuel pump (better than the last but not the cure), a replacement fuel filter (just as well 'cause it was well clogged up) and the trying out of a spare pressure regulator (no difference). The fuel tank seems to be the culprit. An air line blown though the pipes they can get at made no difference. Something is seriously restricting fuel from the tank...its just a trickle. Bugger! Means the tank's gonna have to come out and could mean a new one. Jeez...its getting close to the road trip too...

Disappointed of Tunbridge Wells
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