Fuses

[peter street]

I want to replace the continental type fuses on my 289 with blade fuses.
All my current fuses are 8A, but blade fuses only come in 7.5 and 10A.
Can anyone advise whether I should use the 7.5 or go up to 10A?
Thanks

Peter

[clive]

Hi Peter,
Blade fuses come in 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20, 25 & 30 amps http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/blade-fuses-12v/ I am surprised that you haven't blown any of the 8 amp ones that are originally fitted as they aren't strong enough for the likes of headlamps or the horn. (But then you maybe haven't been out at night or suffered road rage).

[peterc]

Peter
Obviously it depends how your electrical items are grouped together as to amp rating needed for each circuit
You would need to investigate how many watts for each item attached to each fused circuit.

For reference Hawk use 10amp to everything except side lights and instruments grouped as follows
O/S lights & instruments - 7.5
N/S lights & No plate light - 3
Dip H/lights - 10
Main H/lights -10
Horn/hazard/clock-10
Fuel-10
Washers/wipers/heater - 10
Ignition/fans/brake lights- 10

Hope that helps
Peter C

[peter street]

Sorry about the continual post, but the computer said "nooo" - post invalid!!

[peter street]

Thanks guys for the advice, will replace with 10A fuses.
Car went through MOT last week with no problems lights checked and horn blown and no fuses blew!
Only problem was when they checked the washers (first time they had ever done this and I've never used them in 4 years) and they squirted out over the bonnet much to the huge mirth of the tester, who commented they would be useful for washing down slow cyclists who get in the way! Quick couple of twists and they were MOT compliant.
Peter

[clive]

Not only will changing to blade fuses give you better electrical conductivity through the fuse box, but it will prevent this....



The original continental canoe type fuses were ceramic bodied, but now are plastic and I had three melt on me when the headlights were on for only a short time. (Not what you want on dark Highland roads.)

[allan horsfall]

Clive,

Have to ask, was this down to the new bulbs?

Allan

[Roger King]

Seem to be quite low current ratings to me - I have the Lucas SF4 fusbox, with 4 glass fuses, 3 x 35A and one 60A.
I only have 10A for the inline to the revcounter and clock.
I'd be pretty worried about using a fuse where the body can melt before the fuse blows. What's the point in that?
If uprating headlamps from original glowworms, relays are essential. And check that the headlamp pigtails can take the increase in current.

[clive]

This was with the original bulbs fitted and using relays. The wiring is sufficient for the purpose as the new bulbs take no more current than standard H4 ones. The fusebox, which is mounted on top of the footbox, does get extremely hot as my exhaust headers are not insulated, but since changing the fusebox, I've not had any more problems.

[Fireball]

Peter,
I was told the fuses are fundamentally there to protect the wiring and not the components (as they will blow / disintegrate with little damage, whereas the cable will get warm and melt), therefore I would find out what size cable you have and fuse to suit.
Just my two penneth....

James