spinner removal

[Paul Blore]

Roger,

The thing to remember with the pin-drive hubs roger is that the wheels tighten against a flat face rather than a taper, so once it's nipped up, it's not moving anywhere and it's just a matter of getting the spinner to the required tightness. Am I right in thinking that there isn't any aluminium in the splined hub assembly i.e. steel hub, steel wheel, steel/brass spinner?

Paul

[Roger King]

Roger,

The thing to remember with the pin-drive hubs roger is that the wheels tighten against a flat face rather than a taper, so once it's nipped up, it's not moving anywhere and it's just a matter of getting the spinner to the required tightness. Am I right in thinking that there isn't any aluminium in the splined hub assembly i.e. steel hub, steel wheel, steel/brass spinner?

Paul

My point was that if there is any movement at all between pin and wheel, there could be a minute amount of axial movement (indeed there will be as braking and accelerative forces are great). This could pick up on the spinner and tighten it.
Yes, the splined hub components are all steel (although my wheels are stainless).

[agnoraan]

Roger, I've put small datum points on the wheel and spinners and they haven't crept at all under use, so I wouldnt have thought it's that that has caused the problem of the spinner being so tight
Cheers.... Nige

[Roger King]

Nige, it does sound as though they've galled and picked up on the taper. Any damage to the metal surfaces visible?
Don't be tempted to whack them too hard - you can always hit them a bit more and get them to turn, but this can damage them. My vast experience of splined hubs with spinners (the first car to have them was my £30 Vitesse 2 litre MkI, a real widow-maker, bought in 1976) has all been with steel components so I can't advise on ally spinners. But if installed properly, they should not be at risk of undoing in use. You don't need to knock seven shades of the proverbial out of them!

[nikbj68]

Is anyone wiring their spinners? You don`t have to beat the livin` crap out of them if they can`t run too far!

I had to check a wheelbearing this weekend, the white grease behind the spinner had gone dry and it took a bit of persuading, what I did was lift the car, place a block of wood under the '4 o-clock' spinner arm, let the jack down a bit, and then hit the '8 o-clock' arm, effectively doubling my knocking action.
I used Copaslip on the splines & mating faces, and grease on the threads.



(Need a pair of Jag hub grease caps... anyone have some lying around?)

[Roger King]

I don't wire mine, but it's a road car and the 'AC' spinners were never wired.
Nik, I do hope you have an axle stand somewhere under that car as well as an L-saddle jack, on a round-profile chassis tube! Hawk (and AC) chassis are perfectly designed for the use of axle stands.
And, er, what are all those washers doing under the nut on the outer pivot pin?
Whilst I accept that there are differing opinions on the use of Copaslip or LM on the hub parts, I personally wouldn't let white grease anywhere near these components.

[nikbj68]

Haha!!! You fell into my trap... it`s not an 'L' saddle, it`s a 'U' saddle, just squared off, not curved!
But yes, there was an axle stand too.

[Paul Blore]

As Roger said, I don't think white grease is the right thing for these either.

Paul

[PeterA]

Hi - For some years now I've used Castrol Spheerol SX2 for wheel location lubrication, corrosion arrest and anti sieze. Primarily a marine grade grease for open gear and cable protection in sea water exposed areas, it is a complex Calcium construction and thus has a higher temp range than standard Lithium. The data sheet boasts excellent corrosion protection, high resistenace to water wash off, strong adhesion to surfaces and contains no heavy metals or harmful constituents. It is also the recommended grease for use with wire wheel splines by Castrol's Classic Division. To date I have had no negative issues at all ( he said tempting providence).
Regards Peter

[Roger King]

Sounds like a good option, Peter - although the high temp shouldn't be an issue in this application. I see it's available from Opie.

Doesn't anybody do these things in tins anymore??