Water Pump Replacement

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StewbieC
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by StewbieC »

Not all pumps have the backing plate early 65's didn't and mine doesn't. As far as I'm aware the pumps aren't the same. I'd take yours off first and check. All 302's have the backing plate.
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Colin Newbold
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by Colin Newbold »

Thanks for all your inputs guys...I'm delighted to say that the replacement seems to have been 100% successful, both in terms of 1) getting the correct part and 2) fitting it ok. I took the car out on an extended test drive and all seemed well. UNTIL...

...I stopped for fuel after about 4 miles (Coop shop, no idea what the fuel brand was). The tank wasn't empty, say one quarter full (it took about 38 litres) and then approx 5 miles later, as I joined the M20, it started to falter...it was like someone had removed one of the spark plug leads, maybe two. I thought this was pretty strange...never had that problem before and two weekends ago I'd travelled to Goodwood and back for the 76thMM - all fine. It started to get worse, I couldn't do more than 50mph and it sounded awful. I eventually pulled over onto the hard shoulder and let things settle down for a few minutes. Then I restarted the car and it seemed fine. I rejoined the motorway and all seemed well again. Until I'd travelled about 2 miles and then it started again. I basically limped on until I could find a safe place to pull over (an exit road) and then waited again. After a few minutes I restarted the engine and all was fine again but a mile later the problem recurred. Each time I turned off the engine and let the car stand for a few minutes, it restarted straight away and would run again for a few minutes, except that I noticed the run distance got less and less. Eventually, I got recovered on the back of a low loader.

So, in my confused and worried state, I rang Roger King - my mentor in such things - and he suggested fuel starvation, possibly contaminated fuel. Later yesterday evening, we were joined at home by friends for dinner. One of them used to be service manager for Caffyns Land Rover/Jaguar and before that a regional manager for the AA. He said there's no such thing as contaminated fuel these days (!)...he said "did you open the petrol cap to release the vacuum?" He was adamant that it will be a blockage in the fuel cap breather, simple as that! Hope he's right!

By the way, does anyone know if there is a breather built into the repro Ceandess lockable fuel caps? Anyway I've yet to try out his theory, I put the car back in the garage last night while I figure out what to do next. At least the water pump seems ok!!

Any ideas about this latest drama gratefully received.

Cheers,
Colin
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clive
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by clive »

Hi Colin,

My first thoughts would be the same as your dinner guest, however it does seem strange that the vent should suddenly become blocked after all the time you've been driving the car. My second thought was it sounds similar to the problem I was experiencing at Le Mans when my fuel pump was beginning to fail. What was happening was the pump would not meet the demand of heavy acceleration so the float chamber in the carb would run dry thus starving the engine of fuel, but on gentle running it would cope. If the fuel was contaminated, then the engine wouldn't run at all.

One other scenario that I have just thought of, relates to a Humber Scepre I owned back in the 1970s. It would run fine for a good few miles until I went over 60 mph then it would cut out. Like you describe, I would sit for a few minutes and the car would be fine again and off I would go until I got up to speed and it would cut out again and so on. I stripped the twin Strombergs suspecting blocked needles, but all was fine, and the pump seemed to be producing enough pressure, I even blew the fuel lines back with compressed air in case there was a blockage there but still the problem persisted. Eventually,, I disconnected the fuel line from the tank and I was surprised that only a small amount of fuel flowed out before it became a trickle. On investigation, the inside of the tank was painted and the paint had begun to flake and was being sucked towards the outlet where it would block it, rather like leaves round a drain. Once the engine was stopped the flakes would fall down to the bottom of the tank and fuel would flow again but when the demand for fuel was high, the flakes were sucked up again and the fuel would stop flowing!
Cheers, Clive.

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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by Colin Newbold »

Brilliant stories Clive, thanks for sharing! I well remember the first one, as I was in the convoy behind you and kept having to pull over in sync with you. The Humber Sceptre story's great too! Don't think that will apply to me though, the Cobra tank is 100% stainless steel! Luckily, I have a spare fuel pump...maybe it's time to change. Sadly, the fuel pump's located behind the ally bulkhead behind the seats, it's screwed in not bolted, but it means removal of the seats, etc. Guess I could clean out the filter, which is next to it, at the same time. Hey ho, deep joy!

BTW Clive, are you on Billy Boy's trip to Le Mans Classic this year?

Colin
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clive
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by clive »

Unfortunately I won't be at LeMans Colin. Since the ferry from Edinburgh to Zebrugge stopped, it's it really not financially justifiable for me.
Cheers, Clive.

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peterc
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by peterc »

Colin, l query the potential blocked vent in the filler cap being the issue. Do you not have a separate tank vent pipe. I soldered up my filler cap vent hole because having an FIA the cap would be inside the hood when it’s up. The separate tank vent pipe does the job.
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clive
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by clive »

Just another thought Colin. How did you refill the cooling system? If you filled it through the radiator/expansion tank, there might be a possibility of an airlock in the inlet manifold. This might be causing over heating round the carb and therefore leading to over evaporation of the fuel leading t o the rough running. It might be a long shot but worth checking before stripping out seats etc. Normally I refill my system through the heater hoses as it is the highest point on my system.
Cheers, Clive.

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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by Colin Newbold »

Wow Clive, your just full of it aren't you! (I mean that in the best possible taste, I honestly do...your suggestions are truly welcome!!). I did fill through Gerry's cylindrical expansion tank. I will try undoing the heater hoses...if coolant spews out then I guess that eliminates that as a cause??? If not, I'll try topping up through each of those. Good shout, thank you.

Colin
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clive
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by clive »

I undo the top heater hose from the heater inlet and then using a funnel stuck in the end of the hose pour in the coolant until it comes out of the heater.
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
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Re: Water Pump Replacement

Post by Colin Newbold »

clive wrote: Mon Apr 09, 2018 9:40 am I undo the top heater hose from the heater inlet and then using a funnel stuck in the end of the hose pour in the coolant until it comes out of the heater.
By that Clive, I take it you mean until it comes out of the other hose going through the bulkhead to the heater?
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