As above- I have inserted a mechanical temp gauge with mechanical 'bulb'type sensor at the sump. This feeds forward under the headers, past the mechanical fuel pump and up the front of the engine and over the top, and back to the firewall. Everything is nicely secured on the top of the engine.
However, I am a bit concerned about the length of unsupported capillary tube between the vertical bulb sender at the sump and the fixings at the front of the engine. Its sufficiently secure that the capillary cannot touch the headers. Nonetheless it looks rather 'flappy'.
Wondering what others with mechanical gauges might have done? Pics and ideas appreciated.
Kevin
Mechanical gauges and capillary tubes
- StewbieC
- T289R Committee
- Posts: 1361
- Joined: Mon Oct 13, 2008 12:50 pm
- Location: out in the sticks, Shropshire
Re: Mechanical gauges and capillary tubes
A small round loop and a couple of p clips picking up off the sump fixing bolts should sort out any floppyness issues.
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Stu
Hawk 289, 66 Mustang Fastback with a 289 maximum smiles per mile..
Stu
Hawk 289, 66 Mustang Fastback with a 289 maximum smiles per mile..
Re: Mechanical gauges and capillary tubes
Kevin,
I would be concerned with your route as any length of travel near to the headers is all heat gained which affect the reading.
It is normal for instrumentation attached to equipment that vibrates to have an isolator portion in the connection.
Therefore I created three complete turns ( circa 2” circle) close to the sender bulb to act as the vibration buffer which also allows for engine movement. It then traverses the short distance over to the chassis rail and then towards the bulkhead before running up and into the cockpit.
It’s easy to clip to the chassis with rubber lined P clips.
Hope that helps.
Peter C
I would be concerned with your route as any length of travel near to the headers is all heat gained which affect the reading.
It is normal for instrumentation attached to equipment that vibrates to have an isolator portion in the connection.
Therefore I created three complete turns ( circa 2” circle) close to the sender bulb to act as the vibration buffer which also allows for engine movement. It then traverses the short distance over to the chassis rail and then towards the bulkhead before running up and into the cockpit.
It’s easy to clip to the chassis with rubber lined P clips.
Hope that helps.
Peter C
Re: Mechanical gauges and capillary tubes
Thanks all.
I take the point Peter you are right. I could make a slightly sharper arc, but was trying to avoid this as its difficult to see exactly whats going on with the actual bulb hiding behind the engine mounts. If only I had a 4 post lift.......
I take the point Peter you are right. I could make a slightly sharper arc, but was trying to avoid this as its difficult to see exactly whats going on with the actual bulb hiding behind the engine mounts. If only I had a 4 post lift.......
Re: Mechanical gauges and capillary tubes
Correction I only have 2 and a bit turns approx 3” dia.
The coil sits nicely between sump and chassis to the rear of the exhaust down pipe.
I think I installed before the exhausts headers which gives easy access to drill for the P clips.
Hopefully you can jack the car sufficiently up on one side to remove the sender without losing oil and then reroute accordingly.
Peter C
The coil sits nicely between sump and chassis to the rear of the exhaust down pipe.
I think I installed before the exhausts headers which gives easy access to drill for the P clips.
Hopefully you can jack the car sufficiently up on one side to remove the sender without losing oil and then reroute accordingly.
Peter C
Re: Mechanical gauges and capillary tubes
Thanks for all your comments. Yesterday's pre-IVA run out proved all the mechanic gauges work, with oil temp up to 80 degrees after driving in the heat.