Brake Calipers

Technical Area for all the problems you have in the garage
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weberman
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Brake Calipers

Post by weberman »

Hi all. A spot of brake calliper upgrading is being contemplated on the south coast and I’ve asked Mr. Bateman, of Bateman & Bateman, “Hawk Improvents to the Befuddled & Clueless’ (me), to help and assist improve the relatively marginal (heart in mouth at times) stopping power delivered by an ageing Willwood brake set up on my Hawk 289.

AP is one way to go. Any thoughts from across the Forum on this and any other preferred setups and their relative benefits and disadvantages?

Your wisdom appreciated plus a free beer at the Le Mans Classic in 2020 for the winning suggestion.

Thanks everyone.
Martin. Hove.
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clive
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Re: Brake Calipers

Post by clive »

Hi Martin,

My first thought would be to look at what pads you are currently using. I have the old Princess 4 pot calipers and was initially using Ferodo standard pads but later upgraded to Ferodo DS2500 pads which seem to have more initial bite and less fade than standard pads. I know some who have fitted EBC Green Stuff or Red Stuff pads, but as these are more suited to track use need to be warm before they reach optimum performance which doesn't happen in normal road use. I would also think about the age of the brake fluid.

Cheers, CJ

PS Give Mr SB my regards, and as I won't be at Le Mans Classic, a bottle of Single Malt posted to Bonnie Scotland will suffice! :lol:
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
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StewbieC
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Re: Brake Calipers

Post by StewbieC »

Austin Princess Calipers and Ferodo DS 2500 pads here too, Brilliant set up. No servo and plenty of braking capability.
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Hawk 289, 66 Mustang Fastback with a 289 maximum smiles per mile..
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peterc
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Re: Brake Calipers

Post by peterc »

Martin,
Firstly a no cost check.
Suggest removing the pads and checking that they are not glazed up. If so a lightly wire brush or emerycloth to deglaze.
I make a point of ensuring there is a radial groove to divide the pad surface into two halves. The groove takes the dust to away to improve the working of the pads. If there is no groove you can cut one using the hacksaw frame with two blades mounted together.
After cleaning the area try pushing the pistons back to check they are not stuck. I think Willwoods do not come with dust covers on the pistons so it could be that the dust has affected their free movement.
If that doesn’t improve the stopping then as Clive suggested look to change the quality of the pad. Don’t go too hard as Clive says they would need to get really warm to work properly and with general road conditions would not get warm enough to work well.
I have Willwoods supplied by BGC in Cambridgeshire but I can’t see any reference to pad grade. You could give them a ring for advice.
Hope that helps.
Peter C
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Re: Brake Calipers

Post by frats289 »

Martin

BV8 discs, Triumph 2000 calipers and did use Green Stuff pads, servo. All worked very well until the pads wore out which were then replaced with the same. The problem was that they squealed like bu****y. Did some research and found that EBC had changed the recipe although they still work well with good initial bite and no fade.

I agree with Peter - overhaul them first and i suggest you try Green Stuff before going too exotic.

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Re: Brake Calipers

Post by 289 Baz »

If it is of any help I run a Willwood set up and can out brake a 911 turbo (which has been proved at a local roundabout). The make of caliper is not the issue. I run superlite on the front and dynalite on the rear front discs are 11.25 dia 1.25 width on the front and 10.5 dia .75 width on the rear. These are fitted using custom caliper mounts and disc top hats, all machined by myself out of aircraft quality aluminium. I also matched the size of brake masters to the size of caliper pistons, all calculated out to the weight of car and theoretical transference of weight under braking conditions, I would look at swept area and pad material, DS2500 are a good place to start. If you run dynalite on the front of your car you are not going to stop, you need to up the swept area, the same would apply to using AP calipers. Also damper performance has a bearing on braking.
weberman
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Re: Brake Calipers

Post by weberman »

Many thanks to all for the very helpful suggestions. I’ll let you know what I finally end up doing and much appreciate the thoughts.
Colin Newbold
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Re: Brake Calipers

Post by Colin Newbold »

Careful Martin, brakes will only slow you down :roll:
"How you see yourself is all very well, but it's how others see you that will determine the results you get as a leader!"
weberman
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Re: Brake Calipers

Post by weberman »

No brakes? Hmm... Good idea. Big weight loss. Reduced maintenance. No fluid leaks. Only two pedals to think about! Why doesn’t everyone go this. Route?
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Re: Brake Calipers

Post by Colin Newbold »

weberman wrote: Fri May 10, 2019 11:33 pm No brakes? Hmm... Good idea. Big weight loss. Reduced maintenance. No fluid leaks. Only two pedals to think about! Why doesn’t everyone go this. Route?
It would seem that some idiots do in my racing series :roll:
"How you see yourself is all very well, but it's how others see you that will determine the results you get as a leader!"
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