Gents
My 289 is pre SVA.
I am thinking of fitting a roll hoop. I don't, and don't want the SVA mounting system Gerry provides at the moment.
Speaking to Gerry today there is a "pre SVA" hoop, which he can still suply.
Has anyone fitted one, if so do you have some photos and advice about fitting.
regards
Bill
ROLL HOOP
Been thinking about this Bill and I think the roll bar must be the same length on both sides (Not like the current one) and then bolt through the chassis cross member. Do you have holes drilled in the cross member? The ones in mine are for the SVA seatbelt bracket so not sure about yours.
If you are just wanting one for aesthetics then I don't think it would be too difficult, but if it is to be functional then I think it would need to be braced into the boot area.
If you are just wanting one for aesthetics then I don't think it would be too difficult, but if it is to be functional then I think it would need to be braced into the boot area.
Cheers, Clive.
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
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Wynterburne
- Posts: 170
- Joined: Mon Feb 19, 2007 10:06 pm
- Location: Surrey
Hi
I like the unadulterated look of the 289 without the roll hoop. Mine has one, post SVA type, and whilst at Goodowood I was very pleased to know it was there I have to say the car probably looks nicer without one.
If you fit one, can the bar be braced to the front passenger side like the later SVA version on mine?
Regards
Richard
I like the unadulterated look of the 289 without the roll hoop. Mine has one, post SVA type, and whilst at Goodowood I was very pleased to know it was there I have to say the car probably looks nicer without one.
If you fit one, can the bar be braced to the front passenger side like the later SVA version on mine?
Regards
Richard
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kaiserbilly1
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:07 am
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
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richmixture
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2007 2:08 pm
- Location: Essex
Bill,
Here is the advice that I can give to you, which I believe is correct as far as my knowledge goes - how far is that how long is a piece of string!
Anyway, this hoop, firstly as far as I know it was only fitted to racers for the idea that if you rolled it the lune driving it would have a small chance of not being crushed!
I think it might take away your graciuos lines, I cant remeber if you have a racer or not, anyway it personal preference so I cant judge, but if you put one of these pre sva jobbies in, i believe it is worthless and only for looks!
If you bung in frame like mine, then that frame bolts to the chassis in two places, then the hoop bolts to the chassis linking the frame, in the boot the frame pulls down to the boot and into the chassis, thus stopping it pulling forward, and the brace is to stop it pushing back, which bolts through the chassis in the footwell. This bar is the mac daddy and with stands a 7 ton pull, so if you want to race it like me, then its what you want.
The reason I say this, is if you are going to take the effort to put it in, you might as well have one that has functionality, they are a swine to fit!
Any help you need just ask.
Kris
Here is the advice that I can give to you, which I believe is correct as far as my knowledge goes - how far is that how long is a piece of string!
Anyway, this hoop, firstly as far as I know it was only fitted to racers for the idea that if you rolled it the lune driving it would have a small chance of not being crushed!
I think it might take away your graciuos lines, I cant remeber if you have a racer or not, anyway it personal preference so I cant judge, but if you put one of these pre sva jobbies in, i believe it is worthless and only for looks!
If you bung in frame like mine, then that frame bolts to the chassis in two places, then the hoop bolts to the chassis linking the frame, in the boot the frame pulls down to the boot and into the chassis, thus stopping it pulling forward, and the brace is to stop it pushing back, which bolts through the chassis in the footwell. This bar is the mac daddy and with stands a 7 ton pull, so if you want to race it like me, then its what you want.
The reason I say this, is if you are going to take the effort to put it in, you might as well have one that has functionality, they are a swine to fit!
Any help you need just ask.
Kris
Kris
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kaiserbilly1
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:07 am
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Kris
Still just thinking about fitting one at this stage.
I understand that without the rollbar it makes the car look more gentlemanly, but I quite like the ones I've seen fitted to Clive & Richard's cars, they give them that bit more of an aggresive look.
From what I have understood to be the case from Gerry so far, the rear section bolts to the chassis frame behind the driver, and the support strut bolts through the floor in the passengers footwell, so this would appear to me to also offer some form of protection too to the "lunes"
I dont want to fit the SVA cage, as you loose all the space behind the drivers seat.
What do you think, am I mad ? (clearly yes, I own a 289)
You say they are a "swine" to fit, tell me more
Still just thinking about fitting one at this stage.
I understand that without the rollbar it makes the car look more gentlemanly, but I quite like the ones I've seen fitted to Clive & Richard's cars, they give them that bit more of an aggresive look.
From what I have understood to be the case from Gerry so far, the rear section bolts to the chassis frame behind the driver, and the support strut bolts through the floor in the passengers footwell, so this would appear to me to also offer some form of protection too to the "lunes"
I dont want to fit the SVA cage, as you loose all the space behind the drivers seat.
What do you think, am I mad ? (clearly yes, I own a 289)
You say they are a "swine" to fit, tell me more
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richmixture
- Posts: 263
- Joined: Thu Apr 05, 2007 2:08 pm
- Location: Essex
hi bill,
The reason I say they you are mad, and they are a pain to fit is because, you need to jack up the car, get underneath and then find the holes, be careful, as there are so many holes under there its like a swiss cheese!
the ones you need are furthest to the right underneath before the wheel arch and one on the chassis under the wheel arch, you will need to take off the off side wheel to get to it.
Once you have drill up through the holes in the chassis, into the shelf you can get out and have a look.
behind the seat you will see the holes. you then need to mark the holes with some card to the diameter of the hoop, this you can draw on the shelf. from the mark, you can work out where you need to drill in the body for the hoop to pass through and line up with the holes on the shelf, it needs to be about 2" if i remember, check though. then you can add the grommets, and with some washing up liquid side the hoop in, get under the car and put the bolts in.
problem for you, as your car is painted, you cant make a mistake, and you need to be sure you have it in the right place. second, you need to make sure you dont chip the paint when drilling, - put masking tape down first to cut.
Good luck
kris
The reason I say they you are mad, and they are a pain to fit is because, you need to jack up the car, get underneath and then find the holes, be careful, as there are so many holes under there its like a swiss cheese!
the ones you need are furthest to the right underneath before the wheel arch and one on the chassis under the wheel arch, you will need to take off the off side wheel to get to it.
Once you have drill up through the holes in the chassis, into the shelf you can get out and have a look.
behind the seat you will see the holes. you then need to mark the holes with some card to the diameter of the hoop, this you can draw on the shelf. from the mark, you can work out where you need to drill in the body for the hoop to pass through and line up with the holes on the shelf, it needs to be about 2" if i remember, check though. then you can add the grommets, and with some washing up liquid side the hoop in, get under the car and put the bolts in.
problem for you, as your car is painted, you cant make a mistake, and you need to be sure you have it in the right place. second, you need to make sure you dont chip the paint when drilling, - put masking tape down first to cut.
Good luck
kris
Kris
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Roger King
- Posts: 4396
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:29 pm
- Location: St Ives, Cambs
I have converted a roll hoop on Alan Broadbent's car from SVA to non-SVA, so I can tell you all about this.
I removed the SVA frame and hoop. I then got hold of a piece of tubing of the same diameter as the roll hoop (2", from memory). I made up a blanking plate with a captive nut inside it, to match the end of the 'long' side of the roll hoop. This has to be welded into the end of the new tubing at a slight angle, to match the existing side. Taking measurements off the discarded seat belt frame, I measured the extra length needed to make the roll hoop symmetrical, distance between centres, and cut the new tube and welded as required. This needs to be a good weld, as it will show. After careful finishing, I sent it off for powder coating, and now you would never know it had been modified.
Don't think these roll hoops are anything other than cosmetic. I would never trust a single bolt mounting in an inversion - it needs to be properly welded and braced to the frame.
Roger
I removed the SVA frame and hoop. I then got hold of a piece of tubing of the same diameter as the roll hoop (2", from memory). I made up a blanking plate with a captive nut inside it, to match the end of the 'long' side of the roll hoop. This has to be welded into the end of the new tubing at a slight angle, to match the existing side. Taking measurements off the discarded seat belt frame, I measured the extra length needed to make the roll hoop symmetrical, distance between centres, and cut the new tube and welded as required. This needs to be a good weld, as it will show. After careful finishing, I sent it off for powder coating, and now you would never know it had been modified.
Don't think these roll hoops are anything other than cosmetic. I would never trust a single bolt mounting in an inversion - it needs to be properly welded and braced to the frame.
Roger
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kaiserbilly1
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:07 am
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
