Just sorting out dashboard.
The glovebox lid is padded - I'm wondering what thickness people generally use??
I guess it was originally cotton wadding but foam is used these days - it's seems to come in 2mm or 4mm thickness (and upwards of course) so what
do those who've do it use?
Cheers
Phil.
Glove Box lid padding??
Re: Glove Box lid padding??
Are you sure it should be padded! My trimmer did not add any and it looks fine and matches the dash.
Peter C
Peter C
Re: Glove Box lid padding??
It should be be padded, dash is not padded. I would go for 2mm. You don't want it too puffy.
Re: Glove Box lid padding??
Thanks - that's what I was thinking.
Yes Peter - my trimmer has left it unpadded to match the dash even though he had the old one and I pointed out the padding on the lid!!
He's now correcting it.
Phil.
Re: Glove Box lid padding??
It should be a thin horse hair padding. I used a synthetic material from Dunelm. I'm allergic to horses.
I did quite a lot of looking into the glovebox. (pun intended) I don't have access to a real 289 so I have have to sift through millions of articles and sort the originals from the original restored etc., as I'm sure you already know. Even the professionals get it wrong, or are asked to do it 'wrong'.
I found pictures of 'original' lids and the construction but assembly details I don't have. I have done most of the work on my car twice, or more, to
a.) get her on the road,
b.) develop the skills and knowledge to mimic original construction methods and to get it right,
c.) achieve perfect originality, where possible. (Still £1.0M away from that)
In this case I didn't have access to sewing so I glued it all up with Araldite.
The lid is down for redoing this winter as, with most things when they age, it has gone a bit baggy.
I think this is because the original probably had the piping sewn on before assembly and was stretched over the plywood lid before gluing, hence the probable need for padding to allow it to look better (?) and taking the bagginess out. Hence the difference in appearance between lids on these hand made icons?
My lid still looks good but you can't see the stitching (there isn't any) and the edge profile isn't quite right. Luckily this time I'll have some templates to work from.
Hopefully Santa's dropping off a proper lock too... and some switches and knobs and warning lights and... a diff, please.
P.S. the inside face should be Rexine, but I used leather. Sometimes originality sucks. Surely AC must have had tons of scrap leather lying about?
P.P.S. Don't forget to put in the screw for the strap before you trim the lid... a self tapper just won't do.
I did quite a lot of looking into the glovebox. (pun intended) I don't have access to a real 289 so I have have to sift through millions of articles and sort the originals from the original restored etc., as I'm sure you already know. Even the professionals get it wrong, or are asked to do it 'wrong'.
I found pictures of 'original' lids and the construction but assembly details I don't have. I have done most of the work on my car twice, or more, to
a.) get her on the road,
b.) develop the skills and knowledge to mimic original construction methods and to get it right,
c.) achieve perfect originality, where possible. (Still £1.0M away from that)
In this case I didn't have access to sewing so I glued it all up with Araldite.
The lid is down for redoing this winter as, with most things when they age, it has gone a bit baggy.
I think this is because the original probably had the piping sewn on before assembly and was stretched over the plywood lid before gluing, hence the probable need for padding to allow it to look better (?) and taking the bagginess out. Hence the difference in appearance between lids on these hand made icons?
My lid still looks good but you can't see the stitching (there isn't any) and the edge profile isn't quite right. Luckily this time I'll have some templates to work from.
Hopefully Santa's dropping off a proper lock too... and some switches and knobs and warning lights and... a diff, please.
P.S. the inside face should be Rexine, but I used leather. Sometimes originality sucks. Surely AC must have had tons of scrap leather lying about?
P.P.S. Don't forget to put in the screw for the strap before you trim the lid... a self tapper just won't do.
Re: Glove Box lid padding??
Thanks for that Stu - useful knowledge!
Do you have a photo of the strap & screw - not sure I understand why the screw has to go in before trimming??
Regards
Phil.
Do you have a photo of the strap & screw - not sure I understand why the screw has to go in before trimming??
Regards
Phil.
Re: Glove Box lid padding??
Sure will. I'll have to email,, I don't seem able to attach photos.
The strap fitting is a machine screw, 4BA. I used a countersunk so it is flush on the outside. Strap is then held on with a nut.
A self tapper would not hold well in 1\4" ply.
As always with these postings, this is just my current level of research and shouldn,t be used as reliable originality advice.
I'll send the lid pictures in the morning,
Cheers,
StuB
The strap fitting is a machine screw, 4BA. I used a countersunk so it is flush on the outside. Strap is then held on with a nut.
A self tapper would not hold well in 1\4" ply.
As always with these postings, this is just my current level of research and shouldn,t be used as reliable originality advice.
I'll send the lid pictures in the morning,
Cheers,
StuB
Re: Glove Box lid padding??
I've recently done mine, used about a 2-3 mm padding from a swimming pool liner, have loads left. Looks ok doesn't really stand out much.... see attached pics
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Re: Glove Box lid padding??
Ps be careful of the thickness if you fit original lock