Tapping into the monocoque

[Dave Woodward]

Can anybody provide any advise on how to tap into the fibreglass monocoque without flaking / splitting the surface. I am thinking of the studs for the hood, as well as the small bolts securing the demisters and the plates at the base of the windscreen pillars.

I would rather listen to the voice of experience prior to making a mess!!

Thanks.

Dave.

[richmixture]

hi again dave,

Dave the best way i find to do this, is, i drilled my holes with a 8th drill bit, may be a bit smaller, cant quite remember, but you need the thing sharp to start with or it will chew through the gell coat like a cow chewing cud.

make you marks where you want to put the holes. cover with a small square of masking tape, and then push hard down on you drilll and pull the trigger, it will cut straight through without virtually no slip.

To be honest I didnt tap any of my fibre glass, the last thing you want is the stress pulling through the body, if there is any air bubbles between the matting and resin you may find that you dont get a good thread.

De-mister vents I bolted with some allen headed bolts and washer and nut on the other side.

[Dave Woodward]

"To be honest I didnt tap any of my fibre glass"

OK, thanks. I thought that this was necessary for the tonneau studs at least.

Dave.

[Wynterburne]

Hi dave

I have "lift-o-dot" studs for my tonneau and hood which are of the threaded variety and so can have a nut securing them below. Do not rely on anything fixing directly to the fibreglass as there is a surprising amount of strain with the hood or tonneau in place.

I could not find any fixings with long enough studs so drilled out the existing ones from the fittings and inserted longer BA thread rod to allow suitable washers and nuts underneath. I secured the threaded rod in place with one of those dual tube metal mixes. Works a treat but does take a bit of time drilling out and refitting the studs.

If you want more info on this let me know and I can give you a call.

regards

Richard

[clive]

I tapped the body in several places ie the boot striker plate, hood/tonneau fixings and screenwasher jets. As long as you take your time and do not put undue strain it didn't seem to be a problem. Once the holes have been drilled put a slight countersink in it to avoid any cracking.

[Hawk289]

Dave,

The method I use is as follows

a. Tape with masking tape the place you want to drill.

b. Use an old drill bit (not sharp)

Job is a done, takes more time, but the finish is excellent.

John.

[Roger King]

You can get long reach 'lift-the-dot' studs from FinishLine in the States. Use these, with a large pan washer the other side of the f'glass. There is enormous strain on the skin when hood/tonneau are erected.

Roger

[RUT220G]

My next major job is to fit a tonneau and hood so went looking on the internet for advice on fitting the lift-o-dots to the fabric.

I came across this article (link below) which I found very useful - thought others might benefit.

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/top/top101.htm

Update: 18 Sept 07
I also found the following - includes a video clip showing how to punch and fit the lit-o-dot to the fabric.

http://www.sailrite.com/110012?sc=2&category=494

[Roger King]

You can get the correct 5-hole 'lift-the-dot' punch from Woolies.

Roger

[Gareth Cole]

Seems to be some conflicting advice here!

I always cover the area with masking tape and use the sharpest drill I can find. Once the holes are drilled I very lightly open the tops up with a countersink tool so that any sideways strain is transmitted into the glassfibre and not the gel-coat.

Almost all the strain on the lift-o-dots is in shear, not in tension, especially with the tonneau cover, so there should be virtually no strain on the threads themselves.

We just tap the monocoque and put them in with a dab of threadlock. As long as you don't over tighten them they'll be fine.

Gareth