289 build

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allan horsfall
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Re: 289 build

Post by allan horsfall »

Andy,

Dont know what they are called, but they are round sprung steel washer type things with spokes pointing towards the centre. You just have to push them onto the 2 lugs? I tapped mine home with a small socket and pin hammer.

Allan
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peterc
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Re: 289 build

Post by peterc »

They are called starlock washers
Available on eBay £1.70 for 10 with option on size.
Andrew suggest you try Margnor Fasteners at Jacobs Well.
As Stewbie suggested it’s best to just stick the badge on before painting as getting the starlock washer back off without breaking the pins will be very difficult.
Peter C
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amulheirn
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Re: 289 build

Post by amulheirn »

Can anyone point me in the direction of some instructions on fitting the grab handle on the passenger side? I recall an article about it somewhere, but can't find it. I did find Gerry's one from 1999 in the 'technical articles' list that can be found in the member's database, but that's no use unfortunately - it's about original cars.
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ALF
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Re: 289 build

Post by ALF »

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amulheirn
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Re: 289 build

Post by amulheirn »

Thanks Alf - you're a gentleman.
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ALF
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Re: 289 build

Post by ALF »

gladly helped
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amulheirn
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Re: 289 build

Post by amulheirn »

A mini update - realised I've left this thread rather unattended-to, sorry!

I got a Beclawat badge from Gerry, and didn't want to drill and tap the screen frame. Here's what I did:

1. Here are the bits - I'm using brass pins from unsuccessful attempts at picture hanging. They're just the right size:
beclawat-badge.jpg
2. File the back of the pin heads so they fit properly flush when in the hole:
beclawat-pins.jpg
3. Glue pins in:
beclawat-glueing.jpg
4. Cut excess off pins and file flat:
beclawat-filing.jpg
5. Apply 3M tape:
beclawat-3m.jpg
6. Stick! It's not very flush but is more noticeable in the picture than in real life:
beclawat-installed.jpg
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Dave Woodward
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Re: 289 build

Post by Dave Woodward »

Andy,

CPU heatsink tape is an excellent alternative. Wafer thin and sticks very securely.

My bonnet and boot badges were secured with this 8 years ago and are not going anywhere.

Dave.
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I say, ding dong!
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amulheirn
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Re: 289 build

Post by amulheirn »

Thanks Dave - can't remember last time I stuck a heatsink on a CPU! I'll have to see what's on eBay...
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amulheirn
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Re: 289 build

Post by amulheirn »

Hi everyone - just reviving my long-dormant build thread... Things have been going on, but at a much slower rate and I've omitted to update this thread quite a lot. Can I ask for some advice?

Due to lockdown I'm sorting out a few things on the car. The smelly boot and strangely-functioning fuel level sender are two things I think I need to address. The boot stinks of petrol despite there being no obvious fuel leaks, and the fuel gauge (in fact two of them - I swapped the gauge) always reads something in the middle and doesn't necessarily read a lower reading the less fuel I have. So I've taken to having a 24" rule in the back to use as a dipstick... I'm going to remove the tank and do some diagnosis of the sender with a multimeter - the car's due a full service anyway so it is a good time. I also need to fit a boot stay.

Anyway to cut a long story short, I looked at Stu's excellent build diary and saw that he had fitted a fuel tank breather valve:
stu.png
My breather pipe has no valve and exits on the drivers-side behind the wheel. I know that some fuel (rather than just vapours) have escaped from here. So if I bought a valve and installed it like Stu did, would I not end up with fuel in the loop of pipe below the valve (behind the wheel in the pic)? If I do, does that really matter? Or would it be better to attach the valve to the pipe inside the boot, then run the 'air side' of the valve to the rear wheel arch?

I remember Peter Coombes did some extensive work looking into this too - be interested to see what you've all done.

Anyway, I hope you are all keeping well and look forward to bumping into you soon.

Cheers,

Andrew
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