289 build
- Roger King
- Posts: 4396
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:29 pm
- Location: St Ives, Cambs
Re: 289 build
It's pretty important for pedal return. You can't rely on the carburettor return spring to bring that heavy great pedal back up properly.
- amulheirn
- T289R Committee
- Posts: 1207
- Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 2:30 pm
- Location: Surrey/Hampshire
- Contact:
Re: 289 build
Thanks for the advice - I'll get me some springs...
Progress this weekend - the engine went in without a hitch. Wooop! Thanks to 'kenv' for coming over to help out.
Here's a 1 minute video - we work fast!
youtu.be/I5ZqMU9Lw2M
Progress this weekend - the engine went in without a hitch. Wooop! Thanks to 'kenv' for coming over to help out.
Here's a 1 minute video - we work fast!
youtu.be/I5ZqMU9Lw2M
- amulheirn
- T289R Committee
- Posts: 1207
- Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 2:30 pm
- Location: Surrey/Hampshire
- Contact:
Re: 289 build
An overdue update for anyone interested:
I went down to see Gerry to get some bits and inspiration. He's got a new 'museum' if you've not seen it. It was a lovely sunny day, and I got to take a load of photos that I'll tweet over the next few months.
A trip to see Gerry Hawkridge
We discovered that the Scott Drake air-filter, Holley carb and Weiand Stealth combination would not clear the bonnet unfortunately. Roger told me it was probably the Stealth, and he was right. Instead of replacing it with an Edelbrock, we used the lower plate of another air filter with the top half of the Scott Drake. The lower plate was more dished, which solved the clearance problem but now it fouled on part of the carb. So I bought a 0.5" carb to filter spacer from John Woolfe Racing. Play-Doh in penis-shaped pieces is quite useful in figuring all this out. Just don't get penis-coloured Play-Doh or it gets too disturbing for words:
Checking for bonnet clearance with Play-Doh
We fitted the seatbelt frame. First, drill holes upwards from underneath using the ready-made holes in the chassis as a guide. These were slightly enlarged from the top with a dremel:
Enlarging holes for seatbelt frame.
These straps are supplied. The boss end needs to go through the bulkhead between boot and passenger compartment so you'll need a hole-saw like this:
Top end of seatbelt frame straps
With the frame fitted using the two underneath bolts, drill through the holes in the ends of the frame through the fibreglass in to the boot. At this point the fibreglass is a sandwich of GRP and ply, so it is thicker than you expect:
Hole through which seatbelt frame strap boss passes to meet the frame in the passenger compartment.
Fit the rear strap in the boot - there is no hole at the end where it needs to bolt through the chassis. If you've got this right, the flattened end of the strap will be over one of the bolts going through the body and chassis. Remove that bolt, and drill upwards through the chassis rail just enough to mark the end of the strap. Remove the strap again and drill the hole fully, then refit using the bolt you removed to secure it:
seatbelt frame rear strap - offside
Here's the nearside done likewise:
Seatbelt frame strap - nearside
Finished result looks like this - the silver bolt heads you can see at the right hand and left hand ends are what goes into the bosses on the straps:
Seat belt frame
Then we turned to the loom, which took a long time to arrive. One thing to note - if you are using a ballast, you need to specify this when ordering. I was not asked, and the ballast wire was missing. So I have had to run an extra wire and re-wrap the loom. Here's what the three looms look like on my kitchen floor. Take your time with this - it is highly recommended to go through each wire against the wiring list and apply a masking-tape label to the end of each. This will doubtless save much frustration in the long run:
Hawk wiring looms
Laying out the loom for the rear - note the blue masking tape labels:
rear wiring loom
Created a bracket for the relays and fuses to go above the steering column under the dash. The fuses face down to enable replacement. This photo is taken looking upwards at the underside of the steering column:
Fuses
There's more progress, but will update later.
Have a good bank holiday weekend everyone,
Andy
I went down to see Gerry to get some bits and inspiration. He's got a new 'museum' if you've not seen it. It was a lovely sunny day, and I got to take a load of photos that I'll tweet over the next few months.
A trip to see Gerry Hawkridge
We discovered that the Scott Drake air-filter, Holley carb and Weiand Stealth combination would not clear the bonnet unfortunately. Roger told me it was probably the Stealth, and he was right. Instead of replacing it with an Edelbrock, we used the lower plate of another air filter with the top half of the Scott Drake. The lower plate was more dished, which solved the clearance problem but now it fouled on part of the carb. So I bought a 0.5" carb to filter spacer from John Woolfe Racing. Play-Doh in penis-shaped pieces is quite useful in figuring all this out. Just don't get penis-coloured Play-Doh or it gets too disturbing for words:
Checking for bonnet clearance with Play-Doh
We fitted the seatbelt frame. First, drill holes upwards from underneath using the ready-made holes in the chassis as a guide. These were slightly enlarged from the top with a dremel:
Enlarging holes for seatbelt frame.
These straps are supplied. The boss end needs to go through the bulkhead between boot and passenger compartment so you'll need a hole-saw like this:
Top end of seatbelt frame straps
With the frame fitted using the two underneath bolts, drill through the holes in the ends of the frame through the fibreglass in to the boot. At this point the fibreglass is a sandwich of GRP and ply, so it is thicker than you expect:
Hole through which seatbelt frame strap boss passes to meet the frame in the passenger compartment.
Fit the rear strap in the boot - there is no hole at the end where it needs to bolt through the chassis. If you've got this right, the flattened end of the strap will be over one of the bolts going through the body and chassis. Remove that bolt, and drill upwards through the chassis rail just enough to mark the end of the strap. Remove the strap again and drill the hole fully, then refit using the bolt you removed to secure it:
seatbelt frame rear strap - offside
Here's the nearside done likewise:
Seatbelt frame strap - nearside
Finished result looks like this - the silver bolt heads you can see at the right hand and left hand ends are what goes into the bosses on the straps:
Seat belt frame
Then we turned to the loom, which took a long time to arrive. One thing to note - if you are using a ballast, you need to specify this when ordering. I was not asked, and the ballast wire was missing. So I have had to run an extra wire and re-wrap the loom. Here's what the three looms look like on my kitchen floor. Take your time with this - it is highly recommended to go through each wire against the wiring list and apply a masking-tape label to the end of each. This will doubtless save much frustration in the long run:
Hawk wiring looms
Laying out the loom for the rear - note the blue masking tape labels:
rear wiring loom
Created a bracket for the relays and fuses to go above the steering column under the dash. The fuses face down to enable replacement. This photo is taken looking upwards at the underside of the steering column:
Fuses
There's more progress, but will update later.
Have a good bank holiday weekend everyone,
Andy
- amulheirn
- T289R Committee
- Posts: 1207
- Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 2:30 pm
- Location: Surrey/Hampshire
- Contact:
Re: 289 build
A bit of a mad dash on right now to get the car ready for IVA on the 30th April. Eeek...
Fitted the exhaust system (a few times, after discovering that the Hawk headers needed some 'adjustment' to clear the spark plugs. Probably a result of using aftermarket cylinder heads on my engine): Fitted the boot handle and numberplate light. I think the handle can remain in place for IVA since the ends turn in, but I might remove it and replace with an escutcheon just in case: Finally, I bought a speedo cable from Speedograph Richfield who were much speedier than another company I could mention. Had to buy the yellow drive gear, clip and seal from Real Steel: We then pushed the car forward 6 wheel revolutions and counted the number of drive-cable turns: All so that the speedo can be sent to Speedograph Richfield for calibration: Loads of things to do still. More updates soon hopefully.
Fitted the exhaust system (a few times, after discovering that the Hawk headers needed some 'adjustment' to clear the spark plugs. Probably a result of using aftermarket cylinder heads on my engine): Fitted the boot handle and numberplate light. I think the handle can remain in place for IVA since the ends turn in, but I might remove it and replace with an escutcheon just in case: Finally, I bought a speedo cable from Speedograph Richfield who were much speedier than another company I could mention. Had to buy the yellow drive gear, clip and seal from Real Steel: We then pushed the car forward 6 wheel revolutions and counted the number of drive-cable turns: All so that the speedo can be sent to Speedograph Richfield for calibration: Loads of things to do still. More updates soon hopefully.
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Re: 289 build
Looking good Andy. One observation though. Is the fuse box the 'canoe' fuse type? If it is, I would suggest ditching it for a more conventional blade fuse type. From day one, I had low voltage problems which resulted in gauges under reading and lights not being too bright. I checked all the earths etc but couldn't trace the problem. Finally after my last trip to Le Mans where I had fuel pump issues, I decided to change the fuse box as I was finding it hard to get canoe fuses so I fitted one like this http://www.halfords.com/workshop-tools/ ... way-hfs204 and hey presto, no more poor electrics!
One more problem with the canoe fuses is that the original ones were made of ceramic, but the new ones are plastic and if they get hot the plastic can melt before the fuse blows!
One further note, my supplied fuse box was fitted with only 8 amp (white) fuses which were fine until I was out one night and had to use the headlights. They lasted about five minutes before the fuse blew!
One more problem with the canoe fuses is that the original ones were made of ceramic, but the new ones are plastic and if they get hot the plastic can melt before the fuse blows!
One further note, my supplied fuse box was fitted with only 8 amp (white) fuses which were fine until I was out one night and had to use the headlights. They lasted about five minutes before the fuse blew!
Cheers, Clive.
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
- amulheirn
- T289R Committee
- Posts: 1207
- Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 2:30 pm
- Location: Surrey/Hampshire
- Contact:
Re: 289 build
Thanks Clive - I'll have to think about that one. I've installed the fusebox above the steering column now, so changing it out might be a bit tricky... Ho hum - let's hope my fusebox is made better than your original one.
On another note: does anyone have any good ideas on grilles? I had planned to go without, but the IVA requires it and Gerry tells me his are on backorder. I know Migge made his own, but I don't have accurate enough cutting facilities to make one - need a metal cutting table saw etc. I think.
Any good ideas? I'm thinking of a barbecue grille, cut to size with some straight pieces welded on the left and right-hand ends, which could be bolted behind the opening through the wheel arches.
On another note: does anyone have any good ideas on grilles? I had planned to go without, but the IVA requires it and Gerry tells me his are on backorder. I know Migge made his own, but I don't have accurate enough cutting facilities to make one - need a metal cutting table saw etc. I think.
Any good ideas? I'm thinking of a barbecue grille, cut to size with some straight pieces welded on the left and right-hand ends, which could be bolted behind the opening through the wheel arches.
Re: 289 build
There was an article in the magazine some time back by Colin Newbold showing how he made his. For SVA all you needed was a bar across the opening to prevent a 100mm sphere from passing into the radiator. B&Q sell fairly heavy gauge mesh panels that you could fabricate something from. Alternatively could you not borrow someone else's grille for the day?
Cheers, Clive.
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
- David Large
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:28 am
- Location: Walsall
Re: 289 build
We made ours. Getting it cut by a local machine shop is easy. We used brass flat strip and small rhs members. All went well until we took it to be chromed and the problem was that the chrome would not flow satisfactorily across the depth of the strip. So it has (had) inbuilt patina. It is still on the car.
David Large
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
- amulheirn
- T289R Committee
- Posts: 1207
- Joined: Mon May 13, 2013 2:30 pm
- Location: Surrey/Hampshire
- Contact:
Re: 289 build
Very kindly, Richard (who is local to me) came round last night and loaned me the grille off his 289. I had bought some 6mm mesh to cover it which seemed to work very well, and we fitted it to the car pretty easily. Another problem solved... Phew