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- David Large
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:28 am
- Location: Walsall
Re: Anti-tramp Bars & Panhard Rod
I have anti tramp bars fitted to my car (a BRA) but no panhard rod.
As a cheaper alternative you could try polyeurathene bushes instead of the standard rubber or indeed just check if the rubber ones need replacing.
I don't think I have any photos of the bars fitted to my car = but someone on thios site will have.
David
As a cheaper alternative you could try polyeurathene bushes instead of the standard rubber or indeed just check if the rubber ones need replacing.
I don't think I have any photos of the bars fitted to my car = but someone on thios site will have.
David
David Large
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
- kaiserbilly1
- Posts: 1386
- Joined: Wed Feb 21, 2007 9:07 am
- Location: Glasgow, Scotland
Re: Anti-tramp Bars & Panhard Rod
Hi Alan
Try the panhard rod first, it does make a difference.
The one Gerry sells now is a "clamp on" device, that clamps over the MGB tube axle, so no welding involved and you can get a perfect fit.
I have this set up and it works well. I'd agree that you should upgrade to poly bushes too, this will also make a big difference.
I have no experience of the anti tramp bars, so perhaps a member that does could advise ???
Are your running lever arm shocks, if so changing to telescopic will see a big change in the handling.
All of this will work in the dry, in the wet !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
regards
Bill
Try the panhard rod first, it does make a difference.
The one Gerry sells now is a "clamp on" device, that clamps over the MGB tube axle, so no welding involved and you can get a perfect fit.
I have this set up and it works well. I'd agree that you should upgrade to poly bushes too, this will also make a big difference.
I have no experience of the anti tramp bars, so perhaps a member that does could advise ???
Are your running lever arm shocks, if so changing to telescopic will see a big change in the handling.
All of this will work in the dry, in the wet !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
regards
Bill
- David Large
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:28 am
- Location: Walsall
Re: Anti-tramp Bars & Panhard Rod
The anti tramp bars I have work very well. Without them my rear springs were going seriously out of shape and becoming S shaped as opposed to semi elliptical. I have never felt the need for the panhard rod, although I do have one which I have never fitted. I do not however have a bracket to connect it to the axle.
David
David
David Large
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
- Roger King
- Posts: 4396
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:29 pm
- Location: St Ives, Cambs
Re: Anti-tramp Bars & Panhard Rod
Without removing the axle and welding a carefully-designed bracket and stay assembly, you would seriously struggle to improve or even match that clamp bracket from Hawk.
Re: Anti-tramp Bars & Panhard Rod
The side to side waddleing is caused by the lack of lateral location ( panhard rod ) the anti tramp bars are to try to keep the springs from deforming *.
I broke my panhard rod mounting in the early days and as soon as it went I noticed, the car was damn scary, if you don't have one I don't know how you drive fast in the twisties, the leaf springs are not very effective at sideways location.
* I also had those anti tramp bars fitted in the pics and on one occasion I drove the car without the tunnel fitted when testing and I cannot tell you how mind blowing it was to see the axle winding up, the propshaft was having fits, the anti tramp bars were not doing much good at all.
So if fitting a panhard rod be sure to get it as long as possible across the car and it must be horizontal at ride height, idealy not higher than the axle centreline.
The anti tramps are not very effective. The sight of my axle winding up led me to ditch the leaf springs, four link the axle with top and bottom arms and fit AVO coilovers, along with my own rear disc conversion. The result was like having a different car ( for the better ) and with an open axle it can leave two equal black lines on dry asphalt.
The next year after studying the Hoyle front suspension I made my own front double wishbone setup again with AVO coilovers through the middle with revised geometry that works. No hopping / understeering through corners anymore.
All of the above required cutting and welding to the chassis, front crossmember and axle. I realise that not everyone has the means to carry out major surgery and if looking for bolt on stuff that works then the front double wishbone conversion by Hoyle ( if the geometry is sorted ) would be a good bet ( when I spoke to him at a show years ago he told me that it was stock MGB settings )
And at the rear a Panhard rod well set up will help, from my own experience I don't rate the anti tramps at all.
I broke my panhard rod mounting in the early days and as soon as it went I noticed, the car was damn scary, if you don't have one I don't know how you drive fast in the twisties, the leaf springs are not very effective at sideways location.
* I also had those anti tramp bars fitted in the pics and on one occasion I drove the car without the tunnel fitted when testing and I cannot tell you how mind blowing it was to see the axle winding up, the propshaft was having fits, the anti tramp bars were not doing much good at all.
So if fitting a panhard rod be sure to get it as long as possible across the car and it must be horizontal at ride height, idealy not higher than the axle centreline.
The anti tramps are not very effective. The sight of my axle winding up led me to ditch the leaf springs, four link the axle with top and bottom arms and fit AVO coilovers, along with my own rear disc conversion. The result was like having a different car ( for the better ) and with an open axle it can leave two equal black lines on dry asphalt.
The next year after studying the Hoyle front suspension I made my own front double wishbone setup again with AVO coilovers through the middle with revised geometry that works. No hopping / understeering through corners anymore.
All of the above required cutting and welding to the chassis, front crossmember and axle. I realise that not everyone has the means to carry out major surgery and if looking for bolt on stuff that works then the front double wishbone conversion by Hoyle ( if the geometry is sorted ) would be a good bet ( when I spoke to him at a show years ago he told me that it was stock MGB settings )
And at the rear a Panhard rod well set up will help, from my own experience I don't rate the anti tramps at all.
Early B.R.A. Warmed 3.9 Rover, 5 sp, 3.07 rear, Fully adjustable front suspension with AVO coilovers, 4 link rear suspension AVO coilovers and Panhard bar, Big 2 pot front calipers, rear discs, servo'd, adjustable front / rear bias, scruffy paint job !
- David Large
- Posts: 1045
- Joined: Tue Apr 03, 2007 7:28 am
- Location: Walsall
Re: Anti-tramp Bars & Panhard Rod
Wow, I had better get my Panhard Rod fitted then - I have been driving the car for 25 years without it!
David
David
David Large
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
Bald surfer with a BRA 289, Porsche 968 Coupe and a Radical PR6!
- Dave Woodward
- T289R Member
- Posts: 914
- Joined: Sun May 06, 2007 10:00 pm
- Location: Cheshire
- Contact:
Re: Anti-tramp Bars & Panhard Rod
What car was it that you made these changes to? I'm assuming a Mustang rather than a Hawk. Would be great if this was possible on the Hawk.CobStang wrote:The sight of my axle winding up led me to ditch the leaf springs, four link the axle with top and bottom arms and fit AVO coilovers, along with my own rear disc conversion. The result was like having a different car ( for the better ) and with an open axle it can leave two equal black lines on dry asphalt.
Dave.
__________________________________
I say, ding dong!
I say, ding dong!
Re: Anti-tramp Bars & Panhard Rod
Hi
All works to my early B.R.A
All suck it and see, but very pleased on how it turned out.
Can take some pics if anyone is interested.
Regards
Mark
All works to my early B.R.A
All suck it and see, but very pleased on how it turned out.
Can take some pics if anyone is interested.
Regards
Mark
Early B.R.A. Warmed 3.9 Rover, 5 sp, 3.07 rear, Fully adjustable front suspension with AVO coilovers, 4 link rear suspension AVO coilovers and Panhard bar, Big 2 pot front calipers, rear discs, servo'd, adjustable front / rear bias, scruffy paint job !