Thanks Clive
Are you using 2" pipe to come down at that point? What part is leaking so badly on the engine?
Regards Karl
SBF headers
Re: SBF headers
Hi Karl,
I'm not too sure about the pipe diameter but I think it is 2" (It was supplied by Gerry along with the exhaust)
The oil leak is minimal. It is coming from the timing chain cover at the crankshaft oil seal. It is so slight I don't need to top the oil up at all, but it makes a mess of the underside of the engine. At least it will stop the rust!
I'm not too sure about the pipe diameter but I think it is 2" (It was supplied by Gerry along with the exhaust)
The oil leak is minimal. It is coming from the timing chain cover at the crankshaft oil seal. It is so slight I don't need to top the oil up at all, but it makes a mess of the underside of the engine. At least it will stop the rust!
Cheers, Clive.
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
- Roger King
- Posts: 4396
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:29 pm
- Location: St Ives, Cambs
Re: SBF headers
If you're going to fix your alternator on the Right side of the engine, why not just get a set of mounting brackets from a Mustang? You can get them from all the specialists - hundreds of thousands were made...
Roger
Roger
Re: SBF headers
Received my headers from the US today, and what can I say: " They fit perfect"
Looks like there is nothing to modify, nearly impossible!
Karl
Looks like there is nothing to modify, nearly impossible!
Karl
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Re: SBF headers
I had to modify our set of headers (Grrrr)- stock items from Gerry, and buy a short starter motor too.(Grrrr) Summit Racing along with the water pump as someone advised me on another thread.
Our alternator fits on the RHS - there are stacks of tapped holes on the head and water pump so making a simple backet is easy. The long bolt, on which the alternator pivots needs support immediately under the bolt head, ie outboard of the alternator; with a straight stay onto a water pump tapping. The slotted tensioning bar isn't enough to hold it (in my humble opinion). Fortunately the wiring loom still reached it on the RHS.
By the way, your new header clears lovely, but will the next length of pipe which bolts to it?
Our alternator fits on the RHS - there are stacks of tapped holes on the head and water pump so making a simple backet is easy. The long bolt, on which the alternator pivots needs support immediately under the bolt head, ie outboard of the alternator; with a straight stay onto a water pump tapping. The slotted tensioning bar isn't enough to hold it (in my humble opinion). Fortunately the wiring loom still reached it on the RHS.
By the way, your new header clears lovely, but will the next length of pipe which bolts to it?
Also intersted in all AC's, Frazer Nash, Pre-war cars
- Roger King
- Posts: 4396
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:29 pm
- Location: St Ives, Cambs
Re: SBF headers
Shouldn't think so James - Gerry's headers go to a 90º radiused section, with a clamp fit, which none of the yank setups use. Karl will need to do a bit of fabricating here now, I think!James Baxter wrote:I had to modify our set of headers (Grrrr)- stock items from Gerry, and buy a short starter motor too.(Grrrr) Summit Racing along with the water pump as someone advised me on another thread.
Our alternator fits on the RHS - there are stacks of tapped holes on the head and water pump so making a simple backet is easy. The long bolt, on which the alternator pivots needs support immediately under the bolt head, ie outboard of the alternator; with a straight stay onto a water pump tapping. The slotted tensioning bar isn't enough to hold it (in my humble opinion). Fortunately the wiring loom still reached it on the RHS.
By the way, your new header clears lovely, but will the next length of pipe which bolts to it?
As I've said before, if you're fitting an alternator on the RHS of the engine this is the stock fitment for all small block Fords. You do not need to fabricate any brackets or bolts - there are hundreds of styles, Ford and aftermarket, pressed steel cheapo to super-expensive billet aliminium ('cept they call it aluminum) on the market. Why make something that is incredibly readily available? The stock setup is strong, and will not fatigue/break etc. Millions of Fords had it from the factory.
Here - $14 - that's £8 + postage!
http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=AB6573+01
Or you can spend proper money if you want to look flash:
http://bmc.name/store/products/Roush_Pe ... 8-227.html
Roger
Re: SBF headers
With the headers I got two angled reducers (2,5" to 2,25") which can be rotated. I will now weld a 2,25" 90 deg. bend onto them ( maybe some adjusting of the angle with the grinder is needed), but that should be all what is needed.
With the alternator position, see my reasons for changing the position in my other post. On my waterpump I have the threads for fastening only on the LHS also.
Karl
With the alternator position, see my reasons for changing the position in my other post. On my waterpump I have the threads for fastening only on the LHS also.
Karl
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- Roger King
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- Location: St Ives, Cambs
Re: SBF headers
Do you mean RHS? I've never seen a SBF water pump body extending to the left of the timing cover. As I said, all stock Ford SB alternator mounts - http://mustangsunlimited.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=AB6573+01 - go on the RHS.Karl wrote:On my waterpump I have the threads for fastening only on the LHS also.
Karl
Roger
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- Posts: 129
- Joined: Mon Nov 05, 2007 3:17 pm
Re: SBF headers
Derrrrrr!
Got my lefts and rights muddled! Very sorry.
I used part of an original bracket from the RHS mount, and fitted it to the left. My dead easy bracket was dead easy because it was simply a pair of spacers, owing to the fact that the right bank of cylinders is further back.
My headers (C'mon, exhaust manifolds) needed extra mod as we are 351W, but, the fore and aft clearance was wrong too, where the 351W should only be taller. I agree Gerry's are better for being a sliding fit, but they still came perilously close.
A flanged joint would never had fitted on ours. (Ours = My brother Richard pays and I spanner)
Rave on,
JB
Got my lefts and rights muddled! Very sorry.
I used part of an original bracket from the RHS mount, and fitted it to the left. My dead easy bracket was dead easy because it was simply a pair of spacers, owing to the fact that the right bank of cylinders is further back.
My headers (C'mon, exhaust manifolds) needed extra mod as we are 351W, but, the fore and aft clearance was wrong too, where the 351W should only be taller. I agree Gerry's are better for being a sliding fit, but they still came perilously close.
A flanged joint would never had fitted on ours. (Ours = My brother Richard pays and I spanner)
Rave on,
JB
Also intersted in all AC's, Frazer Nash, Pre-war cars
Re: SBF headers
Roger, LHS when you look from behind, RHS, when you stand in front. Picture is in this thread.
Karl
Karl