clutch actuation

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Karl
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Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:43 pm
Location: Germany

clutch actuation

Post by Karl »

That`s how my clutch pushing cylinder looks. No need to shorten or cut anything.
Karl
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Roger King
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Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:29 pm
Location: St Ives, Cambs

Re: clutch actuation

Post by Roger King »

Are you sure that'll clear the footwells with the body on?
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clive
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Re: clutch actuation

Post by clive »

I agree Roger, and it's an awful lot easier to cut it before the body is on. (As I found out to my cost!)
Cheers, Clive.

(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
Karl
Posts: 766
Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:43 pm
Location: Germany

Re: clutch actuation

Post by Karl »

Checked it already with the body on. It just fits.
Karl
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Roger King
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Re: clutch actuation

Post by Roger King »

Glad it fits - I'd just be a little bit concerned that the cylinder isn't mounted in a straight line with the actuating rod. You may get quite rapid wear of the cylinder bore at that angle.
Why not use the bellhousing bolt-in mounting block fulcrum to allow the cylinder to push from the other side, mounted to the bellhousing? This arrangement is very common for converting an early Mustang to the later T5 gearbox and bellhousing, as well as Gerry's preferred fitment for the Hawk. You can get the fulcrum bits from any Mustang supplier, and Gerry has a bracket for the slave cylinder.

Roger
Karl
Posts: 766
Joined: Sat Jun 30, 2007 8:43 pm
Location: Germany

Re: clutch actuation

Post by Karl »

The top of the piston is sort of halfround to allow for the angle. The rod is not solid connected to the piston. It is a tried and tested part from California.
Regards Karl
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