How is the fit in the bore? you need some force to stick the dizzy in or does it slide in easy? The normal push I think but when it's in it's not very tight
Is perhaps a scratch inside have to inspect thator has the hole gone oval? oval???
There is normally no oil pressure at that point. I know Karl. I have that extra oil feed pipe that drops onto the drive gear. But that should not be the reason, that's below the bore tube inside the block but will check again
OGP: Johannes and me the only 289 there Have you been at the Cobra meeting area too? . Managed one hour on the Nordschleife, as the alternator on the MGB V8 gave up and the Cob was allowed as a replacement! Great
Was last month on the dyno to tune the Dellortos etc.
We got 326Nm @ 3500 RPM and 222 HP @ 5200 RPM. On the second run after changing venturis and jets etc. the clutch failed at 2700 RPM.
As you can see, it was just to weak and burnt. New one from AP will be in this week. And then again on the dyno to finish the "tuning" next month. Ignition is still on 10° and I think that we can go to 12°-14° to find some horses?
Bad luck on the clutch Migge. Odd that it should have failed at those figures. Do you have a T5 box? The adjustment for the Mustang-style release bearing is not what you'd expect, requiring a little preload - I wonder if it was an adjustment issue?
Sounds like your ignition timing is very conservative - presumably your 10° figure is at idle. If you're on a rolling road I'd disregard the idle figure completely, and advance for maximum power at around 5k rpm, with no pinking under hard acceleration in third. However with an SBF (especially if you've used Hypereutectic pistons) I would set an arbitrary limit of around 36° total advance as there can be piston crown problems at more than that. Then the idle timing will be wherever the distributor leaves it, could be anything from 12-14° right up to 20-24°, doesn't matter. I know where the max power advance figure is for my 289, but without checking it I've no idea where the idle timing is.
Sorry, forgot it was Rover. Ignition timing basics still apply, though - the idle timing is irrelevant, all that matters is total timing at max power with no pinking getting up to it. Modified engines will require their own timing curves depending on distributor, carb, valve timing, flow etc. etc. which can only be effectively set on a rolling road. That's what you pay them for!
The clutch should take that power all day long, it looks burnt like it has been slipping.
There should be freeplay at the release arm when clutch is engaged.
My BRA has 240 bhp with a Rover 3.9 and LT77 std clutch no probs.
Early B.R.A. Warmed 3.9 Rover, 5 sp, 3.07 rear, Fully adjustable front suspension with AVO coilovers, 4 link rear suspension AVO coilovers and Panhard bar, Big 2 pot front calipers, rear discs, servo'd, adjustable front / rear bias, scruffy paint job !
Hi Migge,
Mine is Rover 4.6 and I run 12 degrees at tick over and with the vacuum pipe to the distributor blocked.
When on the rolling road the engine builder timed it for max advance at between 5000 & 5500 but I admit I can't remember the max figure he recommended for a Rover set up.
He set the engine up without exceeding the max revs I had taken it up to at that time.
Peter C
Cobstang: from the offiziell datasheet (the standard 3500 develops 153 bhp (155 PS/114 kW) of power at 5250 rpm, and maximum torque of 269 N·m (198 lb·ft/27.4 kgm) at 2500 rpm).
I guess the normal RV8 clutch is good for approx. 300 Nm torque to give it a bit af safety on the 3500.
(3.9 litre provides power and torque figures of 190 bhp (193 PS/142 kW) at 4750 rpm and 306 N·m (226 lb·ft/31.2 kgm) at 3000 rpm respectively).
(4.6 litre produces 225 bhp (228 PS/168 kW) of power at 4750 rpm, and maximum torque of 375 N·m (277 lb·ft/38.2 kgm) at 3000 rpm).
All specifiacation with standard engines. No changes on cams, carbs, timing etc.
My clutch was okay for normal test driving without any wild pedal downs and without adjusting of anything.
First run on the rolling road to see the actual state was still okay. After tuning the carbs and better engine running it happens. The standard clutch just can't handel the engine torque and that's why it burnt. Just my 2 pence.
Today the AP clutch CP2394-60 and plate CP2346-4 will go in. I'll report.
