Another 427

[Dale Bowman]

Just Oil, radiator hoses and exhausts to mount .... oh yeah, and IVA

[Marsh]

Dale, that's an absolute work of art and all credit to Mr Brookes; that nice thing is that this photo could be 2017 or 1966; LAX or downtown Talke!

What a car to anticipate - not long now...

L

[Tapped]

Nice.

Mine's just had its first oil change. Its scary how much those lumps take to fill

[Roger King]

Yes, the oil companies do well out of our engines. I just did a change on our Abarth's 1.4 Turbo - 3.1litres! Still not cheap, though - specific oil to the engine.

Most important for a new V8 is a filter change. I change the filter immediately after cam break-in, then again with an oil change at about 500 miles. Then another at around 1000 miles, and assuming no problems every 3000 thereafter. Always a good quality, full ester synthetic such as Fuchs Titan 15W-50, as long as you're happy with the break-in.
The pros send a sample away for analysis after the break-in and first oil change, but I've not quite gone that far.

[Dale Bowman]

I received my "build folder" from Sue at Southern Automotive the other day .... loads of photos and a small owners manual. As far as oil goes she says the recommended oil is Valvoline 20W 50 and states always add a zinc supplement at every change. Does anyone else do this? .... not sure if it make a difference but I have an Aluminium block.

I was thinking of using the Fuchs Titan also instead of the Valvoline

[Roger King]

I'm surprised a US engine builder is still recommending 'old school' engine lubrication - the guy who machined my block in Palo Alto was very dismissive of 'dino oil', reckoning that very few in the US still use it. It doesn't last well, doesn't handle high temperatures well and gives massively inferior cold start protection, mostly because the polymers are not very long chain and are of variable length, being a natural product. ZDDP is a different issue as you know, but Opie techs and bobistheoilguy will both tell you that many (most?) full synthetics contain more than enough of it. I feel the older, more traditional oil suppliers lean on it more in their advertising because they need a selling point.
All that said, if you are getting any kind of warranty on the engine, you have to use whatever they ask you to use. If they are recommending 20W-50 mineral oil with added ZDDP I would guess they have built the engine to seventies-style production tolerances, as an engine machined to modern tolerances would not require such a heavy oil. These days engines are machined to 'run-in' tolerances - how often do you run-in a new car? I have 0.005" rod bearing clearance, and 0.001" mains, in a solid-lifter engine. No dino oil and no running-in procedure.
No, ally block makes no difference.

Edit - I'm assuming you have a flat tappet (solid or hydraulic lifters) cam. If you have a roller cam (cam, not rockers), then I'd ignore the advice and use a full ester synthetic. But it's your warranty, Dale, so has to be your choice!

[monster7]

20W50 does also not have good cold start protection btw...regardless of if it is full synthetic oil or not.
It is also a common myth that this numbers are related to the environment temperatures we are driving our cars...

[Roger King]

20W50 does also not have good cold start protection btw...regardless of if it is full synthetic oil or not.
It is also a common myth that this numbers are related to the environment temperatures we are driving our cars...

Indeed - 'W' = weight, not weather!

[Dale Bowman]

I have a hydraulic roller cam. Strangely I was thinking the oil recommended was for warmer climes and dropping to 15w or 10w 50.
No need to consider zinc additive then do we think?

She also mentions break in oil, but no mention of make or weight??

Paul what make / oil weight do you use?

[Dale Bowman]

Found this doing a quick search ...

In a 10w-40 for example the 10w bit (W = winter, not weight or watt or anything else for that matter) simply means that the oil must have a certain maximum viscosity/flow at low temperature. The lower the "W" number the better the oil's cold temperature/cold start performance.

The 40 in a 10w-40 simply means that the oil must fall within certain viscosity limits at 100°C. This is a fixed limit and all oils that end in 40 must achieve these limits. Once again the lower the number, the thinner the oil: a 30 oil is thinner than a 40 oil at 100°C etc. Your handbook will specify whether a 30, 40 or 50 etc is required