That`s how my clutch pushing cylinder looks. No need to shorten or cut anything.
Karl
clutch actuation
clutch actuation
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- Roger King
- Posts: 4396
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:29 pm
- Location: St Ives, Cambs
Re: clutch actuation
Are you sure that'll clear the footwells with the body on?
Re: clutch actuation
I agree Roger, and it's an awful lot easier to cut it before the body is on. (As I found out to my cost!)
Cheers, Clive.
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
(If I'm not here I'm in my workshop or on the golf course!)
Re: clutch actuation
Checked it already with the body on. It just fits.
Karl
Karl
- Roger King
- Posts: 4396
- Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 10:29 pm
- Location: St Ives, Cambs
Re: clutch actuation
Glad it fits - I'd just be a little bit concerned that the cylinder isn't mounted in a straight line with the actuating rod. You may get quite rapid wear of the cylinder bore at that angle.
Why not use the bellhousing bolt-in mounting block fulcrum to allow the cylinder to push from the other side, mounted to the bellhousing? This arrangement is very common for converting an early Mustang to the later T5 gearbox and bellhousing, as well as Gerry's preferred fitment for the Hawk. You can get the fulcrum bits from any Mustang supplier, and Gerry has a bracket for the slave cylinder.
Roger
Why not use the bellhousing bolt-in mounting block fulcrum to allow the cylinder to push from the other side, mounted to the bellhousing? This arrangement is very common for converting an early Mustang to the later T5 gearbox and bellhousing, as well as Gerry's preferred fitment for the Hawk. You can get the fulcrum bits from any Mustang supplier, and Gerry has a bracket for the slave cylinder.
Roger
Re: clutch actuation
The top of the piston is sort of halfround to allow for the angle. The rod is not solid connected to the piston. It is a tried and tested part from California.
Regards Karl
Regards Karl