289 HiPo run in

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morgy
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289 HiPo run in

Post by morgy »

Hi

Any advice to running in a Newly rebuilt Old engine.

I have been lucky enough to source a 66 Hipo for my pride and joy and should be being shipped during the Festive holidays all going well... Reading the other interesting thread about cam break ins got me thinking about the run in schedule for a fresh rebuild when i manage to get the new engine fitted some time in the spring..

Most of the modern engine's that i have rebuilt or have had done have been trashed out of the box :roll: :lol: most of these have been small 2t engines so completely different kettle of fish...
monster7
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Re: 289 HiPo run in

Post by monster7 »

Flat tappet or roller cam? Break in differs significantly :!: :!:
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/ccrp-110 ... -in-guide/
Kind regards, Ronald
morgy
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Re: 289 HiPo run in

Post by morgy »

It's completely standard engine, Flat tappets,

The cam break in has already been Done and fully tested, so will just needs fitted and running in the car..
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peterc
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Re: 289 HiPo run in

Post by peterc »

Every engine I have built or re built has always been run in for an initial period of 300 miles ( 500k) and co incidently this is what is recommended by both Audi and VW for their new cars. After that period you increase max revs used every 300 miles aiming to be using max revs at 1500 miles.

Initial running in is keeping below 3000 rpm but also not letting the engine labour. E.g. Just drive gently.
I found it difficult with the modern car high gearing to keep above 2000 rpm which I would have done with previous older cars.
Personally I then do an oil and filter change and recheck tappets etc.
I would also re torque the cyl head bolts after 50 miles normally done hot but check with engine manufacturer.

This reason for running in is to allow the freshly machined metal surface to work harden. It will then resist wear better longer term. It is the same principle behind Roger recommended the cam break in although I have never gone to that extent.
Peter C
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db replicas
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Re: 289 HiPo run in

Post by db replicas »

A few engine builders have told me that once the cam is bedded in you should really put the engine under load (High gear, up hill) for a few hard pushes. Not to max revs though.
This is to force the rings into the bores so that they are a perfect fit before the bores glaze over and cause the engine to be forever using oil.
If an engine dyno is available then the cam break in and the piston ring bedding can be done at the same time.
BMW M cars come with dishwater oil which is changed for free at 1500 miles for this very reason.
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Roger King
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Re: 289 HiPo run in

Post by Roger King »

I'd be a bit wary of comparing modern engine procedures with sixties technology. Modern engines are made to such high engineering tolerances and of different materials that running in is virtually unnecessary. My Abarth's 1.4 Turbo has no running in instructions at all, according to the supplying dealer. With a standard type rebuild of an iron block V8 I'd be inclined to give at least 500 miles below 3000rpm, then another 500 up to 3.5k or maybe 4k, with several oil changes (actually the filter changes are more important). If it's coming over having had the cam break-in, the first thing I'd do is change the filter, only cost pennies. If it's a '66, I'd assume it's a 6-bolt, Mark? 6-bolt is correct for coil-spring AC289, I believe date code April '66.
morgy
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Re: 289 HiPo run in

Post by morgy »

Hi Roger

Yes 6 bolt

There are some photos on my flikr if you wish to have a look. It does have the correct 6D assembly stamp the same as the cars before and after mine with a 6B casting date. Looking in the AC bible all the numbers are mixed up so there is no numerical order in the engines fitted, Plus my car has no number written in the bible for some odd reason??? but would have been a 6D

I wouldn't compare modern units with Old School, My atom was run in slightly when i first got it for about 200 miles and i was told to run in for 500 miles. but i think this is only so people get used to the car and don't wreak them on the way home!! The Atom Crash record is 100 yards form the factory before being written off!!! :roll: :lol: :lol: Basically it was thrashed out of the box....

The cam break in has been done. The engine will be completely drained for shipping and filters removed with extra filters in the crate. I do plan to Oil change around the 3-4-500 mile etc.
You hear and are told so many different opinions on run in it makes your head spin sometimes!!
Not holding X rpm for a long time
Not going over X rpm for X miles
Use the full rev range but not flooring it, slow gradual build to full rpm after 300 miles
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Roger King
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Re: 289 HiPo run in

Post by Roger King »

morgy wrote:Hi Roger

Yes 6 bolt

There are some photos on my flikr if you wish to have a look. It does have the correct 6D assembly stamp the same as the cars before and after mine with a 6B casting date. Looking in the AC bible all the numbers are mixed up so there is no numerical order in the engines fitted, Plus my car has no number written in the bible for some odd reason??? but would have been a 6D

I wouldn't compare modern units with Old School, My atom was run in slightly when i first got it for about 200 miles and i was told to run in for 500 miles. but i think this is only so people get used to the car and don't wreak them on the way home!! The Atom Crash record is 100 yards form the factory before being written off!!! :roll: :lol: :lol: Basically it was thrashed out of the box....

The cam break in has been done. The engine will be completely drained for shipping and filters removed with extra filters in the crate. I do plan to Oil change around the 3-4-500 mile etc.
You hear and are told so many different opinions on run in it makes your head spin sometimes!!
Not holding X rpm for a long time
Not going over X rpm for X miles
Use the full rev range but not flooring it, slow gradual build to full rpm after 300 miles
Sounds perfect. I don't know if Dan has sent you his famous 'engine notes', but as far as I'm concerned these are the definitive resource for Cobra engine information. As you say, there was no sequential use of engine numbers and the whole business seems to have been pretty random (no surprises there for what was basically a race shop), so what you have should be ideal.

An old mate of mine runs (although I think he's retired now) Arch Motors in Huntingdon, who used to (and maybe still do) weld up the chassis frames for Atoms. He had some interesting tales to tell...

I'd agree with your little list of running in procedures - but I'd give it a bit more than 300 miles before hetting full revs, unless it's a race engine (which won't last long anyway).

Roger
CobStang
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Re: 289 HiPo run in

Post by CobStang »

db replicas wrote:A few engine builders have told me that once the cam is bedded in you should really put the engine under load (High gear, up hill) for a few hard pushes. Not to max revs though.
This is to force the rings into the bores so that they are a perfect fit before the bores glaze over and cause the engine to be forever using oil.
If an engine dyno is available then the cam break in and the piston ring bedding can be done at the same time.
BMW M cars come with dishwater oil which is changed for free at 1500 miles for this very reason.
When I rebuilt the HiPo in my K code I babied it for the first few trips and was not really happy with the way it was going so I did a compression test and was dismayed with the results, low on all cyls.
I then did some searching and found the above advice on bedding in rings, which was to run the car hard up to the rpm that max torque is made and then come off the gas and let the car push the engine to load the rings as well.

So a bit of ragging the car around and another compression test - the figure had improved by around 25 psi on all cyls. So I continued with the treatment and all is well.
Speaking with another friend with a GD confirms this, he babied his engine for 1000 miles and it burns oil like a b'stard.
Early B.R.A. Warmed 3.9 Rover, 5 sp, 3.07 rear, Fully adjustable front suspension with AVO coilovers, 4 link rear suspension AVO coilovers and Panhard bar, Big 2 pot front calipers, rear discs, servo'd, adjustable front / rear bias, scruffy paint job !
morgy
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Re: 289 HiPo run in

Post by morgy »

Well The Engine is now in its way to the shipping depot and will hopefully be in the UK in the next month or so.. The guy who built the motor has Said i should use a Zinc additive in the oil? He will be sending details of the product he uses in the US, Anyone use such a product or can anyone recommend a good one that will be easily available in the UK..
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